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During the dry season when they get trapped in small pools and the food supply runs out, they go crazy and will eat anything that's weak enough (even their own). Hence why I called BS because that's a mighty large body of water...

Pull the fill plug and fill till it comes out, underfilling will cause oil starvation and heat, overfilling will cause leaks. Mobil 1 is overpriced and contains friction modifiers IIRC, I don't recommend it. If shifting feels like crap, you NEED the MT-90...

Throwout bearing usually doesn't squeek like that. Usually a throwout bearing makes a ton of noise when the pedal is depressed and will continue to make noise if it's held down. Betcha it's the pedal or the shift fork fulcrum (pivot).

Some of the normal auto parts stores carry it in certain areas, but you're best bet are speed shops. If you need the oil, use a cheap conventional oil until you can get the MT-90 in, all the other synthetics I can think of have friction modifiers in em (bad for syncro function). This is...

Well, they kinda should be higher given mine is a very warn shortblock... Are you sure it was the valve? (if you do a leakdown test you'll hear the air leaking out of the port if the manifolds are off)

Check shaft play on the turbo, as turbos don't have "seals" in the normal sense... Some oil is normal, but that much from a freshly rebuilt engine...

A month is far too short to have something on the market. Unless you're hurting for the money (which this isn't a "I have to sell the car to pay rent" situation), stick to your price and a buyer will be found. Personally I wouldn't sell the Supra, as I'm willing to put money on it having a...

Clutch pedal is known to squeek... Clutch fork might not have been greased (easy fix)... My clutch squeeked when brand new when it grabbed (along with nearly taking my neck off because I wasn't used to it), but you have a W58 and there aren't many high performance clutches for em...

Yeah, a strong highway pull and I can almost watch my gas gauge go down :rofl:

Non-riced Hondas get my respect. The old ones have great suspensions, engine swapping is very easy, and go-fast parts are rediculously abundant. I want to pick up an Integra for a DD, but finding one that's not overpriced or beat/riced to hell is tough.

No dyno goes high enough there... It's easily over 1000HP though...

Still RWD, expensive to maintain, and their prices are over-inflated because of the drift scene. Get a Honda...

Yeah, that car isn't slow by any means...

It goes in his drag rail (think top fuel dragster).

It's a heat exchanger. Common sense says not to put the heat exchanger over the HOTTEST PART OF THE CAR. The stock setup has pipes that run over it, with a much much MUCH smaller surface area and the heat exchanger is out in front where it's cool. It's going to heat soak badly in that...

I think an RS6 won the Ultimate Street Car Challenge... Damn nice car, but I'd keep the Supra too...

Most only remove the first cat, only one that I can think of removes both...

In that case you could buy the OEM gaskets and then sell the HG on ebay to get quite a bit back. There are a few gaskets that people have issues with if they're not OEM. EGR Cooler, turbo lines, exhaust manifold, throttlebody, cam covers... If I could do it again (and I eventually will...

Exactly, the stock setup will be more efficient compared to that.

Consistancy is more important that number. Mine where in the 150 range as well, and the block is used...