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NICE! Now there's some good news. What fuel pump and injectors are you using?

No panic attacks - but dates would help a lot by now, there's a fair number of people that are going to need to book vacation time and / or hotel rooms, and the earlier they know when and where the better off they will be. PS: I might be able to get you a contact name for a deal on hotel...

I've seen a few of the narrowbody ones here, too, and I always wonder the same thing... why would anyone bother? :)

Pricing would be tough to guess - I started with hardpipes built for the stock IC, plus he mounted my new IC and relocated the oil cooler. Add in the fact that I supplied some of the materials... it's really not comparable to anyone who walked in the door and wanted a set made from scratch...

It's well worth it to get the head checked, and if it's out, get it decked. I ran mine on high boost for over 6 months. However, I totally destroyed 2 pistons as well as the head gasket - blew the ringland away for at least 35% of the circumference of the piston on the bad one. :)

Agreed!

If this turns out the be the new Supra, I won't be upset at all. You won't be swapping an I6 engine into this chassis anytime soon though - the engine bay will be designed for a V style engine, meaning it's going to be wide and SHORT. Looks like they started with the Lexus SC and got rid of...

I'll throw some info into the mix here. I was running 20+ PSI on a composite Toyota head gasket and blew it up. Detonation was the cause of my problems, blew the gasket out into the water jackets. I don't know exactly what power levels this started to be a problem, who knows how long before I...

I've felt like that now and again. Of course, I haven't turned into a moron and started smashing my stuff.

What are you using to measure air flow right now? Are all these parts already installed? Fuel cut should save your hiney if you still have it enabled / haven't tuned it out...

Look for a boost leak first. If you have a leak, the AFM will measure more air than is actually going into the car, and fuel cut will happen at a lower pressure.

I have a recirc fitting from 935 for the BOV, but I need to pick up a slightly different hose to put it together. It's on the list of things to do... at the moment I rarely push it hard enough to trigger the HKS unit, and you'll notice I still have the Bosch unit in there as well.

Rebuilt 7M is better than a used 1J in my opinion. When both are new, it would be a tough choice. I've stuck with the 7M based on the fact that parts are easy to find and everyone knows them, whereas mechanics familiar with the 1J are rare.

IHI-RHC7, this is the 1080 CFM Spearco core, sorry, forgot to post that up above. As for a stabilizer bar, it might fit, I don't use one, but despite the angle of the shot I posted, these really don't come that close to the strut. One of the benefits to driving a hardtop. :D

Either one will do fine for 400 ponies. The JE units are without a doubt far superior, and for that kind of cost difference I'd buy them in a heartbeat.

$6 would be the charge for that. :)

Well, genius I may be ;), but most of my tricks for working on cars come from hand-me-down knowledge. Spend some time working in a mechanic shop and you pick up all kinds of tricks. :D

Oh, that part is easy too. Grab a big magnet, and stroke the nut along the magnet several times. This will temporarily magnetize the nut. Then slide it in there and it will stick to the bolt.

You actually have to drill to get to the screw. Toyota initially sets these, then plugs the hole so we can't muck with them. Drill out the cap in the hole and you're good to go. You should be able to see where the cap is installed if you look on the bottom. My advice is to pickup a set of...

I'm thinking you are talking about the heat shields? Those need to come off first. These aren't easy, but they certainly are possible... I've done mine several times.