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It's right there :icon_mrgr Sorry, I felt like pointing that out. I guess it's CT26S not CT26-S

TPS = Throttle Position Sensor It tells the ECU how open your throttle is so it can adjust the Air/fule mixture.

The knock sensors are pretty good however the knock sensor wiring tends to fail. There is a cheap and effective way to repair it and many of us have done this. Assuming that this turns out to be your problem you can find the repair guide here...

Now that tag in the picture says CT26-S, so It’s a good bet it's an upgraded CT26. I've heard that it has the equivalent of a 50 trim inducer, and can produce 400hp on the 7MGTE. Now remember this is just what I have heard and have no proof to back it up. So take the info with a grain of salt...

No problem man. :bigthumb: It took me a few minutes to remember where I saw that stuff. I dug through reg riemers site first then I remembered it was JBLMKIII's site.

Just check the code yourself it's really easy, you just need a paper clip . Go here for reference on how to do it. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_023.html Use the paper clip to jumper the terminals instead of their SST tool. Let us know what code you get.

The HAC is used in conjunction with other sensors to calculate the volume of air entering the engine. You shouldn't have any adverse affects, unless you encounter drastic elevation changes, as the other sensors can pick up most of the slack . Members have run with out them with no I'll effects...

Well according to JBLMKIII that AFM will work. Here is his site that lists the suitable part numbers. http://www.jblmk3.com/id74.htm

First off I'd like to welcome you to the forums. Second, I'd say if you think there is something in the tail pipe shine a light up there and look. Nothing but a mouse will go up that pipe farther than you can see with a light, or just disconnect it at the down pipe. Also, is the CEL(check engine...

Yeah, stick with the toyota filter it's a really good one.

Holy cow. I read the title for this thread and thought there is no freaking way. That can't be true. I never had the privilege of meeting him in person, though every day I wish I had. But I have dealt with him on the forums. I’ve seen his cars and followed his progress. He is a household name...

Sorry to hear about the BHG. Our cars just seem to love those things. Got question though, did you retorque the head bolts after 500 miles?

Also there is a small bump stop behind the front axle for lock to lock turning. It has a plastic/rubber/teflon(not sure what but something like that) cap. And that cap tends to wear out after awhile and it becomes metal on metal. It can make a lot of noise, Even a thumping sound. I'm not sure...

15’s won't fit on the front because the brake/rotor assembly is bigger. Where as the rear brake/rotor assembly is pretty small, but it serves its purpose.

Also realize that our stock boost gauges are slow as hell to react anything.

There is a pretty good chance your AFM is bad. My car had a bad one and it acted weird. It would run fine until the car warmed up. Then the car would stumble every 30 seconds, sometimes staling. If I opened the hood it would run fine. As soon as I closed the hood it would start stumbling again...

It should also be noted that the rev limit is implemented by the ECU. So it really depends on what ECU you have what your rev limit will be.

I'm guessing it's what happens when you over correct?

Well the GTO was just an Australian Holden Monaro with an exhaust, and a tuned suspension(which sucked the first year). They may do something similar with Buick since it’s being built in Australia. I’m just bitter with the rout they went with the GTO it fell so short of what I expected. I just...

I had a similar problem. It got flat, wasn't near a snappy. On mine a knock sensor failed and the ECU pulled timing. Car ran fine but it was sluggish on its way up the RPM band. I swapped out one of the knock sensors for a new one and it ran normal again. Knock sensors rarely fail, but I have...