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Stock bolts or ARP hardware? ARP suggests a retorque if the bolts haven't been torqued before... stock hardware, I've never seen it come loose at 70+ foot pounds.

AWESOME thread, Theresa.

It would likely help a whole lot if you defined what a 'high HIGH hp' car means to you. Some people think 300hp is high, others think you need 1600hp before you even start to enter the field. Further, you could define what you plan to use the car for. Dyno contests, street, drag racing...

I should point out that vBulletin allows you to expand or contract any section you want from the main page. :) So contract the sections you don't want to look at and expand the ones you do...

Try getting the alternator tested before you replace it... only costs a few bucks, and many alternator / started shops will do it still on the car.

Tell that to Porsche, who just released a 500+ hp capable turbo that hits full spool at 1700rpm by virtue of variable vanes on the exhaust wheel. :D

Heh... I can't help but laugh at this. I speed all the time. I have a radar detector, circa 1990, that I rarely turn on. I haven't gotten a speeding ticket in over 15 years. If I could bottle this capacity, I'm sure I'd be a millionaire. ;)

Bah - if this guy can make a 1:3 scale replica of a Ferrari, he can make a 1:3 scale replica robotic human to drive it! ;)

I spliced my vacuum/boost signal into the fat line that goes to the power steering pump for the idle up signal. If you're not using a wideband, leave those wires disconnected... but leave them easy to access, because you really want to buy one and connect it.

Yup, the guy is out of this world. When you start talking about making your own tires... I hear that Ferrari actually made and donated the transmission for it when the rest of it was complete, because he couldn't replicate it perfectly.

They don't seem to care here... I've used it many times just to pull around a hulk with no engine. Or drag a dead car home from the drag track... or pull a non-insured car to the new owner's home, for that matter.

If that still doesn't do it, try putting signal from something else into the amp... like an iPod, or a portable CD player, something like that. If it still dims... well, then we get to start asking about your amp... :)

Pull the MAFT plug with the RPM wire in it and check for continuity from the MAFT plug to the ECU plug...

Well, one suggestion I can make... a simple AAA membership will get your car towed 15 miles for free, and it's not 100s for an AAA membership. :)

The onboard amp in the deck probably just isn't up to the task. I have yet to find one that has a good onboard amplifier. The solution is what the last guy did... wire in an amp in the back and use that instead of the deck's amp.

I dunno if they are compatible with the MAP-ECU, but DrJonez carries generic IAT sensors that work with the MAFT pro...

Connect a voltmeter to the two spots in this pic: Should give you a range from 0-5v that shows what the stock ECU is doing to try to adjust fuel delivery.

PJs. Satin for the bed, and an arctic fleece fuzzy robe for around the house.

Racer's method is my preferred way of breaking them loose, works awesome.

Sorry for the OT, but... Halo was actually designed for the PC, then the company making it was purchased and corrupted by MS to make their Xbox campaign work, and they ported it to the Xbox at that time. Then they delayed the PC release for another 2 years to keep the 'edge' with the Xbox...