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Remember those girls in high school that dotted all their i's with cutesy little hearts? Well, guys mature a little slower, is all. ;)

Their communication so far has been good - almost excessive. I've gotten 7 or 8 emails from them in a day - order process, thank you message, receipt, etc.

John absolutely knows what he is talking about.

Pull it apart and check the key & crank keyway. Usually a wobble means this is toast - and your bolt that holds the dampener on is usually loose or missing. Don't delay on this, either, running with a destroyed key will destroy your crank... and the only way to fix that involved pulling the...

That site is awesome - I've bought there, and so have several of my local buddies as well. They are based in Canada, sell in Canadian prices, and their communication / delivery were good. I bought those tires I linked to, they stick like glue. WAY more grip than any set of Kumhos I've tried...

Roy, that's freaking awesome. Ordered one right away. You've got to stop finding things for me to spend money on, or I'm never going to end up installing your center console! ;)

What type of upgrade was it?

Those are ok, these are better: http://www.tiretrends.com/catalog2.php3?tireID=478 275 is going to be scary close in the rear. I'm lowered on ST springs, with a 17x9 +35 in the rear, 275 width 40 series tires, and it's DAMN close. Full tank of gas makes me nervous whenever I see any kind of...

Dead turbo or blown engine... pull off your oil cap while the engine is running, if you have lots of air coming out of there, you've blown up something in the engine. You could always check this properly with a compression or leak down test, of course, but the oilcap is fast and dirty...

No, I don't think it can be done. Besides, then you'd have to take it BACK to the machine shop to get it cleaned, because the slightest amount of that 'gritty compound' in your oil is going to eat the engine alive in about a minute flat.

That pump is fine, but you'll be fine with any OEM pump as well. There's no difference, they are all made in the same place. As for the tranny, I remember reading that they work up to ~300 hp, but damned if I can remember where I saw that.

Unless you are running some other system to give you extra fuel when cold, or your FP VSV is broken, you might as well hook it up to the VSV.

Sorry dude, I misread that - not that lubing the contact points is a bad idea, but it's rather unlikely to help this problem if you're not getting any signal to the actuator.

Try lubricating the joints - everything from the actuator to the locks - before anything else.

Someone does. They are terribly expensive, of course, and I'm pretty sure that the someone was based in Australia...

I run 17x9 +35 offset on the back with 275 width tires, 40 series. I'm lowered on ST springs. It's really close to hitting the fenders... close enough to make me worry about it with camping gear in the back, a passenger, and a full tank of gas.

I suspect that the guide is incorrect. I've never seen one in a Mk3, and they are pretty damn obvious in the Mk2.

As has been mentioned, it holds more power but it's a PITA to drive sometimes due to a harsh engagement. It also doesn't tend to last as long as a full face.

The video hosting site vanished a while back. I'd help, but I don't have enough bandwidth to host vids, just pics... Looks like you're going to have to use that Youtube membership thing!

His profile says he has the R154, so I'm going to run with that. A few of the big number guys have destroyed trannies, Will Neely is reputed to have claimed he could destroy one on demand with 733hp. Seems like the guys under 700 have been mostly ok with them, though.