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reign, +1. so is it a temp sensor or an optical sensor? what would happen if you covered it up so no light reached it?

holy shit. you've made my jaw drop, that is f'ing awesome work.

hadn't even noticed the lip missing until i took a closer look. that's a damn good job!

futeki, looks just like a stock bumper with the grille cut out and fiberglass smoothed.

you guys are crazy, and i love it. if its not the supra up on blocks, its bound to be something :biglaugh:

i thought this thread was about the track tow hooks...silly me. the hooks on the car right now, just like most of you have mentioned before.

it shouldnt rust too bad, unless you're planning on fixing it sometime next year. in the winter, humidity is lower so you stand a better chance of the metal staying cleaner. when we sandblast cars we tow them to richmond in the winter and then tow them back (still in winter) so we have a...

i remember that, someone posted the newspaper article up here. as for the cages, will a bolt-in cage actually be safe during a crash? articles ive always read lean towards weld-in cages (the route im going) and stay away from bolt-ins. anyone have info on this?

rear quarter looks like itll be ok to be pulled out, just make sure you take it to a good shop

i dont think you would if you used a temp coating rather than a paint. they make an exhaust coating that cures flat black, lowers underhood temps (if you paint your header/DP) by a noticeable amount. ill have to dig through and find that site again.

if youre looking for protection, then mechanix gloves are the way to go. theyve saved me a few times from metal shards and splinters to hot exhaust mani shields. they're a little hard to get adjusted to when doing fine work, but they're a whole lot thinner than other gloves on the market. a...

yeah, id think that a paddle setup would be better (keeping hands closer to the wheel while shifting)

van racing ftmfw.

rears are definitely easier than fronts, and i believe the correct ohmage is 4. if you're talking about the speakers at the corners of the hatch, then yes (not too hard). ive never had to worry about the ones under the rear seatbelts (next to the rear seats). should be 4" all around, but...

sweet job on that pipe. i got a $150 stick welder a while back for some basic welds. hard as hell to get the technique down but now its coming along great. any tips/words of advice for me? i'm seriously thinking about getting a MIG setup in mid to late march.

how about green - turns, blue - high beams, red - BHG

are you saying the kenwood is permanently attached to the wires? all receivers ive seen have separate plugs in the back of the receiver. just take the plugs out, solder the wires (they're all color coded using the same basic scheme) and make sure to put some shrinktube over your connections...

yeah, fits toyota. as for extending wires, theres no need. your alpine should already have a soldered harness thatll go from deck to wires (alpine-specific plug) to the supra specific plugs. just unplug the alpine-supra harness and wire your kenwood harness to the new (walmart) supra plugs. with...

ones for autozone suggest getting nowhere near gas or oil or heat, really. id go with a well-made hose kit, cause your engine will depend on it.

youll have to solder a new harness. easy stuff, wiring harnesses should be at walmart for like 10 bucks. if you were switching from alpine to alpine, then you might have a chance that the plugs would be the same (if they were around the same time period). since you're switching brands, i think...