If I recall and with out looking in my note book, the stock head is 116mm or 4.566". If the machine shop does not know how much they took off the head then shame on them. You always mic the head before and after. If you had material removed from the head and increased the bore size, you should...
You are right about that, the last na-t swap I looked at couldn"t make over 600 with the distributor, had to go with an aftermarket crank trigger.
The best aftermarket ignition box will only work so well when the initial spark signal is crap.
HKS did this back in the 80's with their 7m mk3 dragcar and I did this very project like 4 years ago!:naughty:
That is a good point that you bring up Arron, most people don't realize that an increase in displacment squeezed into the same cc head will result in higher psi.
What are you using for the pick up? Stock dist. or crank trigger. Not an expert on the na-t 2j, but have heard that upper boost levels stumble over lack of a good spark signal.
The deck height is the same between the 5m and the 7m, the 5m crank with the 5m rods is a direct swap, this is why I kept asking how much power they will hold .
You would use the 7m pistons on the set up as they fit directly on the 5m rods. 2j, 7m, 5m all use a 22mm pin diameter, You can...
Why all the talk of custom rods? I will ask again what has the stock 5m rods been proven to? Because to destroke the 7m with a 5m crank you just use the 5m rods also. 7m pistons go right on the 5m rods too.
What kind of power has the 5m crank and rods proven themselves to? Years ago I thought of trying the same thing out, but played with destroking the 7m crank 8mm instead. Never finished that project because at the time, I could not afford the custom billet rods to match. I cant even remember what...
I had low oil pressure once in a car I just purchased, after pulling the pan, i come to find that the sump screen was plugged nearly solid with rtv gasket sealer pieces and sludge. Stupid previous owner. i like arrons idea to do first, there is a small oil port just behind the turbo oil drain...
sounds like you just need a turbo with a 4" outlet!
No really, your 4 inch pipe would make a good elbowless dp if you fab it up to a weld flange, but after that anythng over 3 inch would be overkill on a ct, as stated above.
Buy a bead roller from harbor frieght, then you can do them yourself over and over again, Like me!!!!! Don't jb weld wire to the pipe, you are potentialy inserting future chunks of material to be pushed right into you motor.
I think the mods do a good job, no other site I know of will let so much go on as this site. My sig alone would get me banned for life over at SF, here anyone can advertise their website or parts they sell. i don't mind a few jokes now and then, but in the last month or two it seams that usless...
How did this thread turn into a big advertizing campain for sellers, why jack the guys thread?
Back on topic.... Your list of parts looks fine to me to get you started.
Aaron is right about that. It takes a well trained eye, a feeler guage, and a very nice machinist straight edge to detect that the block is with in spec. IFFF it is, then a good clean up of the block will usually do the trick with a composite gasket. Lapping, or stoning of the block is not going...
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