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what's the big fuss over 10's? ive already ran 9's in mine. oh wait. that's 1/8mi. yeah anyway, besides what has been said, suspension, tires and driver will have a lot to do w/ it. be prepared to have a good 60' time in the 1.5-1.6 range to get you there.

thanks welly. just seems kinda lame i cant change it around to how i want it. i just dont see the need for 6 of the 14 rpm points being below 3400 rpm. 7k and 7600k i dont need either. so out of the 14 possible bands i really have 6 that i care about. regardless, im sure i can get it tuned...

updates! flange came in and was welded on, tbody fitted, plate welded on bottom for vac ports, and ming the merciless alt bracket finished. thanks again to sean for all his hard work on it. my son was proud of the new seat and wanted me to post a pic of that too while i was at...

help me rhonda!

yes you can leave the isc and hose as stock if youd like. i just try to clean things up as much as possible. rubber hoses and metal lines across the top of the motor just didnt do it for me if there was another way. you can also attach a filter directly onto it or run a small hose out of the...

sure can, but be aware it will idle goofy when you first start it up. will need to get warm before the idle will be stable. you can always just cap it off and see if it works for you. if it acts too weird for you then you can add the filter.

clr is center line radius if someone didnt know. i.e. how tight the bend is. if you needed tighter you can always go w/ the cut and paste japanese style ;) i think we should put together a "hook-up" page. info like this along w/ t bolts, couplers, etc.

if running maf mode, you need the isc line between the throttlebody and maf. if in speed density you can either eliminate it or run a breather filter on it. pcv line should still go into the intake for best results. most just go a different route and often add a catch can along the way.

turbo spool is one way to do it, but ideally you want it at your torque peak. as far as drivibility issues, it just depends what you want the car to do and what you expect out of it. there is always a compromise of some sorts. i really dont mind it and may have made it out to sound much...

most performance radiators dont have provisions for the tranny cooler.

best way i can describe it is it behaves like driving a 5sp w/ a slipping clutch. you have to give it more throttle to get the car moving, less responsive in normal driving, and climbing hills you have to really get into it. just driving my car onto the trailer wasnt a lot of fun. you have to...

yep it sure is. some are more loose than others, but it is in that range. as far as 3000 not fitting, thats crap too. i have a 3400 in mine. the cheapest place is an outfit down in florida. i'll see if i can dig up that info for you or perhaps someone who know's what im talking about will...

adam- ive checked fts forum, the manual, and the all mighty mkiiitech and cant find my answer... when going into the a/f trim table, can you change the rpm setting? not sure why it has such a large resolution below 3k rpm. i would like to have more settings available in mid and high range...

why not just say rigged? might want to edit the racist comments out. no call for that here.

accurate? perhaps. but for the sake of comparison cant really compare and/or judge vs dynojet numbers. thats the only problem i have. in all honesty, usually i could give a crap about numbers anyway. i care if the car is running good, tuned and transfer that to the track. sure, there is...

nope, 11.5 is pretty close to perfect. makes good power and really reliable.

it is the afm input pull-up resistor. you dont need it anymore to monitor timing.

congrats on the improvement! however, i too am a little perplexed why it is still a little off. the 60' is there, just a little lower et and trap than i would expect. a 61 w/ a .9 spring should be approaching or above 400rw. regardless, nice job!

looks about right for the mods and stock fuel maps. altho, it is a hard bit to read the a/f with the numbers right over top of it.

that should be the fuel feed line. one end goes to the fpd on the rail. take out the banjo bolt there. then there is a junction block by the motor mount w/ another banjo bolt. take that one off. there is also a bracket right about the middle holding it to the block. if you are talking...