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Update! Luckily I spent 15 years in Eastern China learning to become a contortionist, because that's what it takes to be able to test pins 4 and 12 on that connector without removing most of the cabin. I get a consistent ground on 12, and ground on 4 when it's not on full cold. On the one...

So, yellow wire has 12v. Ground wire has continuity to... nothing. JJ scores again. The mix damper... as long as I'm looking at what I think I should be looking at, it's moving. Slides around quite a bit when I go from anything to full cold. So, at a guess I need to find whether it's...

Sigh... If you had taken my advice, instead of complaining about how obvious it was, you would have likely read this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96926&highlight=code+25 as it was the third one on the search results thread. It it, Jetjock explains in the last post...

Happy birthday. And ... SHADDUP. 37 isn't old. Freakin' kids these days...

Here's a start: Click Search, type in "code 25" including the quotes.

There's a really useful article on 7MPower.com about what you need to achieve X power and survive. Start there...

Replace the hose inside the overflow. And the one from the radiator to the overflow as well, although it's substantially less likely to be causing this problem. What happens is that this hose cracks. Then when the engine is hot, it still pushes coolant out just fine. However, when it cools...

I think I'm going to get one of these, and re-purpose the original wheel buttons for stereo volume control... or something. Thanks for the photos, folks, very much appreciated.

Take a pic or two and fire it my way, dude. I don't want to go that route if it's ugly is all. :D

Nothing fancy, I don't need anything disassembled, I just want to know what the stalks look like with the cruise control on them. I'm considering updating mine so that I can either run the buttonless steering wheel, or perhaps rewire the wheel buttons for control of the stereo volume.

While I'm not entirely stumped... yet... the options I'm left with are all rather... distasteful. So, here's the story. The vacuum operated valve that allows hot coolant into the heater core doesn't open under normal operation. The valve is fine - if I bypass the VSV and feed it straight...

Hey folks, I'm looking for a picture of the cruise control after it was moved to the stalk instead of the wheel. Thanks in advance!

http://wiki.supramania.com/tiki-read_article.php?articleId=1 Check the 1990 section.

You need to check all the usual cooling system issues. Radiator cap and thermostat should be replaced, this is cheap and easy to do. Pull off the two top radiator mounts and pull the radiator away from the frame, check that there isn't a bunch of junk trapped in front of it blocking the...

I don't know what I can generate on mine. I give up before the tires do!

Just put in one of the new urea injection systems and the exhaust becomes pretty much a non-issue. Might smell like pee, though. ;)

I run the 615s, and you're right, they are a handful in the rain. If the pavement is wet, they are marginal, but as soon as there is actual water over top of the driving surface, they are downright scary. I run winter tires through late fall, winter, and early spring to avoid most of the rain...

Same here. I saw larger performance differences when using it in an automobile, though. I don't recall the exact numbers anymore, that was ... err... probably at least a decade back by now. Of course, I couldn't keep using it for long, because it caused leaks that hadn't been there before!

Depends on where you are located, I'd say. In North America, you'll have better luck with a domestic V8. Displacement makes for less wear in the long run, and those boats tend to run at high throttle for long periods of time. IMO, I'd want to build for double what I'm going to run most of the...