Search results

We have cars pushing ~900 rwhp without chassis issues. You can rest easy there. 350 is pretty easy to achieve, at least through the manual. Not a lot of people stick with the auto, so reliable information will be harder to find on that setup.

It's *possible* to push upwards of 500rwhp through a stock block / head, however, you're well into crazy upgrades by the time you get there - meth injection kits, much larger turbo / IC setups, aftermarket standalone ECUs, this kind of thing. And your stock Auto won't make it that far, that's...

When you can hear the noise, simply pull the plug wires one at a time. If one of the wires makes the noise go away, that rod's bearings are toast.

Unfortunately, you can't convince the tech inspector at the track of that. :(

There are a number of advantages to the new spiral cell gell batteries. And no, optima is by no means the only people making or selling these, just the most well known. For those people running solid motor mounts, these will survive the extra vibration, unlike standard lead acid cells. My...

Wow... F150 really peels that open like a can of sardines. Glad to hear that you're ok...

Err... you do realize that English cars are imports, right? :D

How is the clearance between the housing and the strut tower? Your engine moves in the bay, remember... if it's too close, it's going to hit under power or decel.

Never had my car mistaken for a 240 or a Probe. Had a guy think it was a Corvette, though. That was funny. I get what you mean by the CTRL-ALT-DEL feeling, too, I was too stunned to even consider explaining just how wrong he was.

Did you tell him? I'd have walked him over to the car after you got back and had him read the back bumper.

I use mine more in the winter than the summer. SO nice to have the fog on the inside windows vanish in SECONDS. Plus, if you're ever going to drive to Supras Invade Las Vegas with us, you'll want it, if only to taunt those without it. Doing 130 mph across the desert in 100F+ with the windows...

If you are emulating a narrowband sensor, it's non-linear.

Not even close. You could have a destroked crank fabbed, I guess.

The two-foot long bird called a Kea that lives in New Zealand likes to eat the strips of rubber around car windows.

Turbo death is usually pretty easy to spot, too. Pull off the accordion hose and spin the turbo by hand. If it scrapes, it's dying.

Turbo death whine usually happens at all speeds. I'd say it's likely a boost leak. The stock plastic pieces in the IC piping path tend to fail after 20+ years and start to split. Good place to start looking, anyway. I'd build the $5 boost leak tester and try to find any boost leaks you have...

The Felpro may seal, you'll have to keep an eye on it for a while. Did you torque the head bolts to 72 foot pounds, or did you use the (wrong) rating of 58 that's in the manual?

Yes. However, you will also need to put a resistor in place for the heater circuit on the stock O2 sensor wiring, or you'll get an evil code all the time.

+2 for Jeff. I'd be really surprised if you can't get mid 400s out of that setup with a bigger turbo. The only thing you may need is something to defeat fuel cut - but really, you should be able to tune it a fair bit higher using the safc & your afpr. I went with the Turbonetics bolt on...

That is correct. Do you know the cons associated with this?