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Thanks

This was my stopping point for the night because after I put on the cover I realized I didn't put in the valve cover screws lol, so tomorrow I am going to get replacement bolts for those instead of the retarded philips head bolts and use new washers that came with my kit then finish her up...

nevermind I found it

I will do that tomorrow then. Right now I am having trouble finding where to put the oil dipstick and I cannot find it in the TSRM to save my life. I know where it bolts to on the turbo but I don't know where it goes in on the block.

I got Rotella 15w-40, they didn't have 15w-30, and a Purolator classic filter after awhile I will change the oil again and use a better Purolator filter.

Alright so plan tomorrow is to put everything back in, exhaust manifold heatshield, change spark plugs, connect the rest of the wiring harness, charge pipe, intercooler pipe, radiator, and hoses then refill the radiator I might flush it with distilled water before putting in 50/50 mix. Get some...

It hardly freezes here maybe a couple times but not often at all. Our winter lasts like 2 weeks lol.

I read that it's okay to just switch from regular oil to full synthetic, if this is true then I'll switch to Castrol European Formula aka German Castrol since I have read multiple times while researching oil on this forum and others that it is very good oil and a true synthetic.

What weight Rotella oil should I use? Seems Rotella T 15w-40 is good

Sweet, I have people coming over tonight so I doubt I will get any work done but if I get oil tomorrow I don't care if godzilla is attacking Houston I am going to put everything together and fire her up.

I got copper spark plugs and a stant thermostat, it says 195F I thought it was 180F but I looked at the box when I got home and realized. Should I take it back and get 180 or will this be fine? I am stock and don't plan on doing anything with the car mods wise anytime soon.

I got the 90 degree coolant hose I need, dealership wanted $28 I saw it at Champions Toyota for $16 on SF, so I went to advanced auto parts and they had it for $8 it is just a tiny bit shorter but it will work.

here is where I left off tonight, tomorrow I will have to loosen the turbo enough to slip the second half of the exhaust manifold heat shield then finish up on that side with connections and then the radiator and wait for spark plugs, wires, etc. then finish the intake and start her up.

Well chalk this up to my stupidity I rotated it twice and the crank and cams lined up correctly at TDC, crank at 0 and cams lined up with the notches and I put a chopstick in cylinder 1 and it stops moving up right at 0. So all is well now time to put the alternator on, timing cover, radiator...

I will be checking that in a little bit and I hope it will be a matter of chalking it up to my stupidity and all goes well.

I rotated it once and it wasn't lined up, I will try rotating it twice stopping at TDC on the second rev and see if it lines up.

ahahahah thanks, now I need a timing light. I looked under the diagnostic cover and it shows the connections, derp.

Ahhh I see, good to know. Quick run down, turn the crank to find TDC with piston 1, set the cam gears at TDC with the notches on the timing cover, put the belt on, jump E1 and T1 or TE1 it seems for later models I think mine is TE1? then start the car and if I get a flashing code adjust the CPS...

so what do those two connections do, reset the timing or something?

So using the #1 cylinder piston will tell you true TDC then I put the cam gears at TDC then timing belt on and I should be good? Also the CPS of course. Now when I jump E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics connector, which ones are they exactly and do I put a wire or paper clip in them then start up...