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lol I am going to get it checked with a timing light tomorrow errr today but I want to get the car to run decently while I take it to the shop down the road. Today I noticed with the cams lined up with the notch the crank is not lined up with 0 it's about 10 degrees past it. Like I said the car...

I am trying to avoid going to my friend's shop and finding out that my timing belt is off when I think it may be off right now, so that way I can have it all set right and just have the ignition timed right.

Yea I know I will be using a light tomorrow at a friend's shop but I want to also try to get it as close as I can to minimize the car running rough and stalling while driving the car there lol. The place is like 5 minutes away. Either way how can I fix this or is this even a problem to begin with?

Alright here is why my timing is off and can't be advanced anymore. I adjusted the CPS to where the hole in the gear lines up with the notch, when I removed it the CPS was still in that position, but when I put it back in and adjusted it to where it lines up with the hole and notch here is what...

It seems that my timing belt jumped a tooth when I put it on. Crank stops 10 degrees past 0 when cams are lined up

I think I may have messed up while putting the timing belt on because if it were on correctly then wouldn't I be able to adjust the CPS to the 10 degree by guessing and the motor wouldn't stall or run rough? If I turn the CPS clockwise to the max that is when it runs a little rough and stalls...

I have researched their gaskets and they are good, same as OEM and when I got it and compared it to the OEM gasket it looked exactly the same. I just want to know if my idling problem is due to my timing being off, I replaced the seal in the idle control valve then started the motor again after...

Fixed my fuel injector leak, replaced the shifter bushing using a Marlin Crawler bushing, HUGE difference highly recommend them, and drove her to get some gas. Just need to get her timed properly and she is all done.

I hope it doesn't come to that lol. Well The car seems to run fine, it idles a little low and rough and when I am driving at low RPMs like 1500-25000 the car judders but that is from the timing being off right? I also installed the new shifter bushing and my god what a difference, the shifter...

So when I get a hold of a timing light, I loosen the CPS bolt, set the car in diagnostic mode, connect the timing light to spark plug #1, start the motor, shine the light on the crank and it should show a white line and I need to adjust the CPS so the white line lines up with the 10 mark on the...

No more fuel leak, she starts up fine and idles smooth and quiet other than a little stutter at times from it not being timed right but I drove it around the neighborhood for a little bit and drives very well.

I replaced the first 5 injectors including injector 1 that was giving me the leak and I noticed there is an extra O ring in the kit that is larger than the other O ring where does this go? The O ring in the middle is the O ring that goes on the injector that goes inside of the fuel rail.

Found an Advanced Auto Parts has 5 of seal kits in stock I just picked them up going to pick up the 6th one tomorrow morning. Tonight I am going to replace the grommets, the seats underneath the O ring and might as well just replace the O rings again. For the grommet that sits under the O ring...

Hmmm, if it's easy then I'll probably go for that kit you linked me to

Turns out I do have to order the grommets I would order that kit you linked me to numba1 but I am a little short also I don't have the tools to remove those baskets from what I have seen on youtube videos. So I will be back out working on the car on monday or tuesday, I wish I could have gotten...

Thanks, I am very excited to drive her again but this time before I do I am going to replace the shifter bushing lol. I have been putting that off because I put these leaks at the top of my list of priorities with the car but after I am done that bushing is being changed before driving.

Ooohhhhh yea I was looking at the injector and saw a gold ring and thought that might be it. I'll look into replacing those, thanks. Hopefully the auto parts stores near me have the grommets and O rings I need because other than this fuel leak the car is ready to roll I think I fixed the oil...

Yea I get that but are they inside of the fuel rail and on top of the injector when they are in the fuel rail? I didn't see any screen filters on top of the injectors when I took them out and put them in that is why I am thinking they are inside of the fuel rail.

Are they inside of the fuel rail or something?

What exactly are basket filters and where are they? Thanks J_S I will be taking the injectors to autozone and if they don't have it, Advanced auto, and last resort O'reilly.