there was some one else that had the cable go under there intake and go up to the throttle bodie, you couldn't even see it on top pics of the engine.
very clean , i think this is the post he's looking for.
i cant find it, but it may be on supra fourms.
i found this, that big arron wrote, "So I came up with a fix/upgrade. I go up to a 7/16 stud with coarse thread on the head side and fine on the manifold side with a 7/16 helicoil in the head. The coarse side has larger diameter threads that will not strip out of the head. The fine side lets you...
lol no kiddin,
i wish i could get a flywheel for free!
i having problems tracking down a oem replacement let alone find a used one localy i would consider picking up..
sad thing is, the clutch is all what holds me from my 5spd swap, and i wont cut any corners here. i dont like yankin...
any one think the exhaust studs were in backwards? i noticed the threads go deep into the head, yet the studs went only half way or less into the holes.. i was thinking this could be a possible cause of the threads being pulled from the motor aswell.
aww come on!.. how hard did you run her...
your taljin about greasin the bearin to help installtion and removal right?.
i was pretty sure you dont greeze sealed bearings, i just tapped the last on i did in with no greese
well puttin my brother's motor together and i started puttin ght exhaust mani on, and i started to noticed that one of the bolts i was tightening didn't feel quite right.
well i need to know what helicoils i need to buy, and should i replace all seven studs with them?
thanks for all your...
probaly baked at 1500 degrees or so..
altho i dont belive our heads will "glow" red, i would belive cast heads will.
just for the fact aluminum doesn't change color while heated/welded.
i have a set of pre-89 flat usdm side markers, your more then willing to have, so long as atleast one set is made :evil2: i have a parts car that will be going to scrap in about 1-2 months and i would like to get all the use out of the parts as possible.
i am down for either bubble or flat...
does he talk about using plastic gagude to check for bearing cleanence? some one allready said he didn't check valve lash,
did he show you the right way to check timming belt tension? which is, lossen the idler bearing allow the spring to tighten the belt, and tighten the bolt, then twist...
in the first pic, it looks like the vf is tring to lean out the mix some, then as the afr comes up, it goes down to around 2.5v's and then when you went wot, it droped all the way, wher eim going to assume that the computer went into open loop, and stopped using the vf signal.
the high volume pump gear is on the right, and here's a pic of the lid
and the under side of the lid,
notice the dowl pins in the lid to keep it from moving, this was the 2a pump. the 2b pump did not have these.
do you have a wide band to monitor the changes your making yet?
have your wired it up yet? or are you at the point where your confussed about how to start tuning..
well disabled the pumps, and found the correct pump was in the motor,
lets my mind rest.,
i'll post some pics up latter so people can reference this for searches..
i cant find any pics right now, but my first ride was a yellow 68 baja bug that was on 31's thing was a blast, i used to bring it to the oregon dunes and beat the crap out of it,
she finaly broke from wheelies on the street.
-68 vw baja bug
-77 k5 blazer
-84 toyo celica gt
-purchased...
your a/c or your heater?
are you sure your a/c is making gurgling sounds? ive never heard of that.. i still further go with symptoms of bhg, but incase you just flushed the system. rich gives good detail on how to burp the system.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.