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lol, yeah treu, i stumbled across it my self., half tempted to cut it out for him any ways, and hold it , the car might be scrapped before he makes a descion..

i'll cut that hole section out for you... pm if you want to..

whats the benifit of the teflon one? so it can actualy scrap the crank? think it would be a waste to work on one for a turned crank like mine?

nah he isn't, i dexonlined that.. "i" do not bring my ride's to these shops, i do all my build and repair and i have only been their at the location posted when he was having is ls-vtec swap done..

hey duane are you going to be driving up from portland with us that be'll fun.. lol i think this meet should be well covered in pic and photage so long as people use them.. :3d_frown:

lol i was thinking the same!

:biglaugh: i couldn't agree more.. now that i think about it , i should have had him double edge my crank.

well i have requested the day off, so i really hope we dont have to use the rain date, as it's hard to get back on the sched once changed.. any ways, i guess i'll start a list of for sure people who will make it! please list, name , screen name, and area travling from so we can have...

Ground Zero Motorsports 8216 NE Sacramento St Portland, OR 97220-5441 (503) 255-6485

auto and turbo are same splin, auto is shorter i belive.

ground zero and rrev more then likely sell this stuff, i have a friend in a frienkienstien honda that uses a gallong of race fuel a week in the mix of his premium gas, i just called him to awnser your question and he said gz sell's it to him for around 7 bucks a gallon..

connect the uego to analog to the maft po, the serial connection is more for a seperate devices, the lc-1 you connect analog 2 since it's set up how the pro wants to read it, 0-5v 5 being lean.. i only noticed the heat soak while the engine sat, i never had hard started hot...

great post supracentral. any way you can add this info to dr.j's post here ? http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39170 i think people would find it easier to find!

those marks look identical to the marks made by the bearing on the rod knock moto i just bought, the head wasn't damgaged that bad bu the block had gotten a scrape, and the piston had some work.. rings looked good still.. any ways, have you pulled the oil pan off? or changed to oil to exame it?

ahhh, i see, im still looking for that crystal mod, :3d_frown: :cry:

hardlimit as the motor cant spin any faster? or ?? im really curious what i could spin mine to.. but might be years till i find out :3d_frown: still going with shimless buckets tho and stiffer spings.

got it so were meetin at hooters :biglaugh:

i heard to properly seal chrome rings you "must" be hard on them during break in. im not sure if total seal is the same thing, im just saying what my instructions have taught us. he even said he had on set of chrome rings take over 1500 miles to seal well, they evently used some sort of...

hey dow, dont go with toyota oil pump drive shaft bearings, they need to be "finished" unless i got the wrong set twice, the first set of aftermarket i went with did the trick, yes i measured them while in the block and new, infact when i got the second set, i tried them on the shaft first...

i belive it will work but you may see problems going over 500 feet. it;s a fairly simple mod, just read up and prtice soldering some. yeah use the plug and play harnes. , the other one i just saved for a back up incase it becoems old and worn out..