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what about boost? part throttle boost ok? or keep out of it completely when getting on it hard( could be difficult).

why is this guy selling it so quickly? your going to get what you pay for with a 20 year old car. i wouldnt buy a car like this for that cheap if i had no mechanical abilities.

your going to kick yourself for not getting the 2.5" now if your upgrading later.;)

i keep the "bling" factor low. the ones that discount tire sells can have a socket hammered on to them and taken off. http://www.mopar-accessories.com/en-US/82211462/partinfo.aspx?CategoryId=1003&GroupId=2000&DivisionId=2&Year=2008&VehicleId=37&SubGroupId=3016&pc=7932 i have these on my...

they make a new csi time swtich that allows it to operate the csi till the low 100 degree water temps. Still hasnt fixed the problem for me though (got it with car)

last engine i saw from rebuild a place like this, they bored out 2 pistons and left the undamaged ones stock sized. Fix whats broken and leave the rest seems to be the moto... ($.02)

first start of the day is like this for me too. After its been running i have to let it sit for a few hours to recreate the longer crank time. otherwise starts right up. Do you have a charcoal canister still?

its annoying at worst to park sometimes. You can feel the load but a quick blip of the throttle takes care of it. I would put mine back on (previous owner removed it) if i had a port pre turbo to hook it too. is that a worm gear on a stainless hose?

damn those picks should be censored, supra nudity! sooo CLEAN!

am i reading into that to much or is that sarcasm i sense from jj?

sounds like something got reset completely

pull the relay and check it to make sure its within specs http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=114 do you have a fp gauge? aftermarket regulator? which fuel pump?

STOCK-410 CFM SPEARCO-770CFM SSAUTO-870CFM make sure you read the thread, they are #'s for comparison. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10779

i ment non-diluted ammonia

Ij knows more on this, He is speaking of the 3 holes on the oem cam gears where the dowel pin goes.

Your not going to find strait ammonia for sale to the public. A few wifs and it would kill you within minutes. My tint shop uses a hand held steamer to get the tint to start peeling off. No blades or scraping. The trash bag trick sounds easy enough too!

its ONLY 350-400hp :) lol, stock for stock, DUH! few bolt ons here, overzealous boost controller there, its a different game ;) (obviously a more reliable 7m is needed HAHA) drive over to IJ. Guaranteed lose, YES(IMHO). Hell of a video, YES

To add: razor blade is NOT to scrape!! (ask me how i know :D) a tint shop should be able to remove damn near anything on your windows. Ive found a few do not WANT to, although they can. Its a massive headache to get a fubar tint removal job finished ($$$). Either do it ALL, or let the tint...

im game, from a role of course :D ONLY good race was a cammed evo (list of mods longer then my leg) and that was on low boost for me.

looks like some one nicked it with a screw drive or something used to pry with...