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thanks for the backup ofna was trying to find the thread last night but didnt have any luck

Well heres your options A. Order the AFPR kit from driftmotion install, and completely bypass the jtube B. Drill out the jtube and yes its the line going up to the rail, you can tell because its like a small pinhole surrounded by extra tubeing, find a bit will drill out the hole larger but wont...

pull the jtube off, when you take the lines off of it youll see the pipe on the jtube has a small small small hole in it, grab a drill and drill it out. Leave a little bit of meat left as you have to re mount a line the the drilled out j tube. But the afpr kit driftmotion sells comes with the...

second that

The only gasket your not supposed to coppercoat are metal headgaskets, as for type i always use this kind http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80697-Copper-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBNUDQ it works like a charm just coat both sides, set it on the retainers in the block, put the head on and be on your...

dont you mean running a boost controller?

you really dont need to use fipg on the head, just make sure you use copper gasket sealer, cover the gasket completely on both sides. You dont have to remove the turbo, makes things alot easier to just remove the manifold and pull the head away from it. Believe me it used to take me 45 minutes...

the drain plug should be on the bottom drivers side or in the middle of the tranny on the drivers side of the tunnel if i remember correctly, pull it let it drain, and since its gear oil it will never stop lol so once the flow gets very very small go ahead and throw the plug back in. Make sure...

Pull the shifter off, should be held on by 4 bolts, and pour through the hole, be very very very careful not to spill or else it will stink when the tranny gets hot, it holds 3.2 qts, fill it up and put the shifter back on. Done get some new gas in there and if you found the coolant leak and...

you can also take it to a machine shop and have them hot tank it, IIRC the machine shop by my house will do it for around 20 bucks

i heard it was around 28 but i may be mistaken

my turbo timer has 2 settings 1 at 1 minute and 2 at 2 minutes, and if i feel the need to have more time i can always add it in up to ten minutes. It works great i believe its never a bad thing to run cooler oil and water through the turbo after a hard run. And hey, its a nice way to put heat...

cool deal with pictures things will become a lot more evident with what were dealing with

cap next to the overflow is to turn your headlights up if the motors stop functioning(which they rarely do). Id also change the spark plugs and wires, its not that hard and with a standard small set of tools you can take care of it, if you need a write up on that i can give you a step by step...

Bought a 3 hole lip and want to know the easiest way to mount it, the holes have not been drilled out yet, and i do not have the stock bolts for my original lip ziptie FTW!:bling:

im pretty positive he still has it

Correct me if im wrong but all the GM LS motors are sleeved and they seem to hold up fine, i have no idea about sleeving a 7m but it doesnt sound like the best idea.

So checked everything today, and unfortunately i think the transmission is the issue everything on the clutch and the hub is per the tsrm and works correctly, so im thinking front bearing retainer.

i dont think its stock, but i can see how youd think it was, and it is a pretty neat looking part hopefully someone who knows better will chime in soon.

I'll check the flywheel bolts tomorrow and pp bolts tomorrow, only reason I believe it'd be the throwout bearing is maybe if it were installed incorrectly, but I followed a clutch install thread from supraforums which corresponded correctly with the tsrm so maybe I'll recheck my work there as...