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^ I fully agree. Ebay will only insure up to 200.00 bucks, minus the 25.00 fee to process the claim. Go ahead ask how I know this, trust me, it's supra related ;).

Try the spring thing that I sugessted and post back ;).

Well it looks like he posted up another thread about this in general discussions...:3d_frown:

It could actually crack if the metal it comes in contact with is hot enough when the co2 or freon, or whatever is sprayed onto it. every taken a skillet outa the oven and poured ice cold water on it? Instant crackage ;). BTW: Anyone have any input on the first part of my last post? I figured...

Been there and done that with the massive exhaust manifold leak... Some dumbass who had the car b4 me replaced SOME of the exhaust studs with bolts and TONS of washers :3d_frown: .

When you say the bolts are torqued to factor spec, do you mean the Toyota factory spec? Or ARP spec? There's a big difference between the two and you should tell us right away cuz if it's Toyotas spec, you need to tighten them more or you'll blow that HG.

If you don't have a mechanic check and machine the crank so he can tell you what size bearing you need to get, you'll just be right back where you are now :(.

8 psi isn't stock boost, check the vacume hoses, something doesn't sound right there. If it's stock then it should show around 6-7 psi.

Check in the parts review section or google it. Iirc it's been reviewed b4 on here...

Iirc that other side of the vacume goes to one of the sensors on the thermostat housing. I'm thinking Figit is more correct on the functions of the charcoal canister than I am. After thinking about the name I think of a charcoal filter used in fish tanks, it makes more sense now that I conect...

If you're re-routing the coolant by tapping into the head where the water jackets are, wouldn't you run the risk of getting less coolant into certain areas of the head due to the coolant flowing through the new lines? I don't about this for sure, but it seemed like a good thing to point...

I believe it's for emissions purposes. It takes the fumes from gas tank and recirculates them back into the engine to be burned off. A little more enviromentally friendly I guess. Just be sure to take that line from the gas tank outa the engine bay or the inside of your car will reek of gas...

Hmm, did you reuse the old gasket? When I took mine off it disentegrated on me :(. It could very well be a normal noise, but I don't recal ever hearing it on mine, but I wasn't really looking for the noise either. I'll check my supra this weekend for that noise and see if I have it too.

It doesn't free up HP, it just makes more room in the engine bay. It's pretty straight forward actually. Unbolt it, unplug all of the vacume lines from it, cap those lines off and your done. Just remember to remove the hose comming from the gas tank out of the engine bay or things will start to...

According to him, it's not vibrating while braking, at least he didn't mention it. He said it did it during shifts when more weight was transfered to the front. I'm guessing its the rims or tires, but it should also vibrate all the time in normal driving, at least up to a certain speed.

Getting ready to buy 3... Yes, I said 3, 7mgte blocks and probably around 4 heads to be doing 2 rebuilds on. You can never go wrong with a couple extra engines laying around, you know, just in case. Once I figure out which ones I'll be keeping I'll post up the others for sale to the community ;).

I would have thought the BOV would cause that code also if it was vented into the atmosphere. It has a similar effect as what he is describing, but not the same.

You need to turn on the heat all the way and at full blast to help lower the temps somewhat. As stated above you should have pulled over as soon as you blew the line. As far as ARP hardware and MHG goes, get ARP studs, they're a little better than the bolts. And as far as pulling the head and...

Does it not vibrate during normal driving? If it was the tires (or rims for that matter) it should also vibrate at normal driving.

Clean out the inside pretty good. Take the throttle plate out and dissasemble. Clean out the hollow points where the shaft that holds the throttle plate go though. It may have developed a decent amount of carbo deposit inside it. You may also want to take your throttle spring to an auto parts...