Search results

If it's on zero when cruising (not accelerating, but staying at a constant speed) it should be in vacume. I'd say there's some kinda vacume leak somewheres...

If you have the wideband installed close to/on the elbow you will be buying another one soon enough ;). They can't handle the extreme heat from that spot like a stock o2 can. You don't necessarily have to put it all the way down by the test pipe, but anywhere in between the last two posts...

If you're torquing past 81 ft/lbs w/moly on ARP studs you risk breaching the yield strength of the stud... Not to mention it would be a lot of stress on that AL head ;).

Sorry to say this, but machine shop is your best bet. I don't think plasti gauge can actually tell you what bearing size you need before the machining has been done...

That draggster is wicked crazy!!!:aigo:

I'm still leaning towards wiring harness issues...

He said the turbo doesn't seem to run so I'm betting he's either got a bone stock car that he can't really hear the turbo on (and feel it kick in really). Or his turbo dead ;).

^ Good idea, install the dp and elbow at the same time the bolt onto the turbo ;). Or you could get an integrated dp and elbow, but that would be wasting money ;).

Maybe it's some type of oil line that's got a small crack/leak in it that doesn't open up easily until the oil and engine is fully warmed up and pumping out a decent amount of pressure.....:dunno:

^ :werd: do it right the first time ;).

^ :werd: me too, I'll give 8 grand, that's 1k over your seven ;)

^ Lol, I may condiser doing the chick, but He'd get no more than 5K for the car from me... Can we say "2JZGTE time!"?

I've ran Silviana silverstars in two different cars, in both cases the lighting was much better than the stock yellowish bulbs...........:dunno: I only had these bulbs set for highbeams though cuz other ppl on the road didn't like how bright they were on lows ;).

^lol, *flexes arm, the muscles sags down even lower when flexing*....:( That may be why they can't get some of them off ;).

Put some light coats on and bake it for a little bit (possible do before also to expand out the pores). It should be fine as long as you use a high temp paint. Should be good for a couple years at least as long as nothing chips the paint...

I got enough to buy it off of you I'd say, but I'm getting ready to buy a few 7M's to work on a couple of rebuilds. You can never have too many engines laying around!

^ :werd: I've seen those too, but this guy is clearly doing it for show. Gee, if I do a mild port and polish on my head to get rid of the casting flashes, but keep the reversion dam on the exhaust side, doesn't it make my head a stage 1!?

I used a kit specifically for calipers too, paint on. This was for my 2G I used to have though, pretty good shit. I had no problems with it. Still have the lefr overs, I could probably get the front's and one back caliper done with what's left...

^ I bet it does simplify things a lot, more expensive for sure, but should outlast the life of the car... The Supra God's forbid that ever happening! The newer SSQV's have no adjusting screws on them now due to dumb people fubarbing them up ;). BTW... Gimme your intake manifold! I want it!

Check out Suprahero's exhaust. It almost looks stock without bending down and looking underneath... Very sleeper looking!