I have a w58 in my car with 330k miles that would strongly disagree. Had the w58 rebuilt and have been running ~9-11 psi on it for the last 20k miles. :) Hasn't missed a beat. W58 is smoother and with a good aftermarket clutch can hold about as much power as the stock HG if you dont dump the...
Glad to see some others chiming in with personal experience. :) And glad to see you making the right decision. :)
You should plan on replacing all bearings. Mains, rods, thrusts. Wrist pins might not be needed. I've never replaced those on my builds. You will need to have the crank polished...
If the block surface has been used for anything more than a couple hundred miles I wouldn't even consider it. In all seriousness, mhgs are NOT intended to seal anything other than a freshly machined, low ra finish block. Some machinists don't even have the equipment to machine the block to the...
If you can't afford to have the machine work done I would VERY strongly suggest you use an OEM head gasket. MHG should only be done when you can assure the block surface is prepped correctly. A good machinist will laugh in your face if you tell them you're going to prep the block by hand with a...
Pillar pod is the easiest and doesn't require much "modification". Problem is most that are available (Lotek or Ebay vendor) are not perfect fitment. and dont look factory.
Wow. If you end up wanting to build and sell LED taillight kits I think you've got a market for it. There's never really been anyone to make and market LED tails and I think you could really make some $$ doing it once you have the process down.
Haha, thanks man. My girlfriend appreciated that post, haha. I'm not redoing any wires just yet. I cut a bunch extra long on purpose... just not 10" long. Looks like some will be fine, but at least a few dozen wires will need to be redone. Oh well. Just more practice with this whole wiring...
Honestly, I would go through the wiring manual (Buy one on ebay if you dont have one for your year car) and go through the circuit checks. They go pretty in depth. You may be able to chase down the problem faster that way.
Motherfuck. So after cutting and crimping dozens of wires I have realized one of my initial measurements was wrong. 10 inches short.
On every.... Single... Wire so far... I should just start drinking...
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Hmm...I've been stalling painting a couple different pieces in my bay (engine hooks, turbo heat shield, radiator brackets, etc) until I found a good paint and I may have to try out some silicone paint. I've seen that in the auto stores before, but never seen it used. It turned out really well on...
Jetjock, this is my concern with the jacketed, insulated wire. I plan on snaking the wire around the bay a good amount. Do you know if 20 awg 27500 would be flexible enough to act like regular 16 awg 22759?
That's an idea, but I'm going for super clean and classy. That might work and it'd be...
This part really gets me. Lol. 30 qts of oil? That means you had to stop for a JUG of oil every 50 miles or something. And yet it calling a tow truck was never an option. 30 qts of oil x ~$4 a quart is ~$120. That's a good portion of a long distance tow truck.
Instead you now have an engine...
$3500-4k.
I sold my 88 turbo targa with 125k, bad tires, bad shocks, w58 tranny (Did a manual swap), ripped up driver's seat, stock exhaust, but extremely clean body and clean interior other than the ripped driver's seat. See my sig for details if ya want. I got $4k just last year.
Id pay $300+ for a high quality, perfect fitment piece.
Instead, about all that's available are the lotek ones and the occasional cf one from a random vendor.
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For what's worth, mine doesn't fit that well. It functions, but it doesn't look good... My build thread, page 2-4 or something has a pic. :(
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Yes it is that bad. It's bad enough that i'd call in late for work to change it out before driving again...
If you can't afford the wideband, you can't afford to make the car any more powerful.
Like the old saying goes, "dont put the cart before the horse."
Tuning a supra isn't cheap. Until...
Hey guys, I'm rebuilding my harness and I'm choosing the shielding material for my knock sensors, CPS wires and OX sensor. I want a good effective solution and I've found a few options. Mainly metal braid, conductive nylon and heatshrink tubing. The heatshrink tubing tends to be most expensive...
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