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I think your limiting factor there is the CT26. I dont know that a 60-1 can do much more than 400 whp. That's also with a good aftermarket downpipe. You don't list a downpipe so what would you be using? I hope not factory. The factory downpipe and elbow are a huge restriction beyond stock power.

Nice replacement. No need to justify moving on. A mk3 isn't a great solo DD for most anyone at this point in time. The chassis is old and few of them are well cared for. I would only recommend a mk3 as a second "fun" car. I'm faced with a big decision in the coming years: My Supra: -$1000+...

For machine work here's roughly what I've paid: Clean, pressure test and mill: $75-100 3 angle valve job: $300-450 replace valve stem seals (parts cost NOT included): $80 I've never paid a shop to adjust the shims. That's something you can do on your own rather easily if you have a...

I'll throw my opinion in the ring here. OP: the stock system is fine at those power levels. It's not excellent, but it works. If your system is already hacked you may as well look at a full flow setup, but you could also revert back to the factory setup easily. Take caution: The full flow...

110 across the board would probably run just fine. 60 across the board might be enough to keep it from catching while starting. Causes for instant compression loss across all cylinders? I can't think of any that would leave you with more than 60 per cylinder. 60 is still mostly sealed so it's...

Wow is right. Holy crap. Beautifully documented with pictures. I saved nearly all those. That's about as impressed as I can be with a stock pre 89. Someone has babied the hell out of it. ... I wonder how long it'd take to blow that head gasket with typical turbo Supra-owner style driving. :P

95% sure on this. Yes, you need RTV (FIPG) still. The FIPG is there to seal the seam between the rear timing plate and the block. The HG type doesn't change the fact that the seam exists.

That's a neat trick with the CPS manual manipulation. I figured the signal from the coils would need more speed from the [insert technical name of spinning CPS part here] than you could muster up with a simple hand turn to get a clear signal, but that's cool it doesn't require that much speed...

I'm not sure you can see spark while turning a CPS by hand. At least I don't think that's a real useful diagnostic tool. Get everything reassembled and back to "complete". Diagnostics can be quickly rendered useless if even one key connector isn't plugged in so try to keep the engine as complete...

I'm willing to bet it's simply a calculated estimate based on engine parameters. Similar to the age old BMW MPG calculation on their dashboard.

I think you should go through these checks: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=122 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=123 You will need a good DMM and either a terminal extractor or eyeglass screwdriver or similar tool to...

I've done compression checks with the throttle closed and open and haven't noticed a huge difference. Not nearly enough to give you 70 psi or whatever you said. It'll make a difference, but not that much. I know from first hand experience on multiple 7Ms.

The answer to your question as stated is "no". For air to make power you need a few things. *Fuel Ratio *Spark *Compression *Timing If any of the above change, your power will also be affected. Some engines have more compression. In general, that will produce more power per incoming...

At first I was going to say that's an unnecessary mod unless you're running really high pow...... And then I saw the video and 217 MPH and 0-180 mph under 20s, haha. Neat idea to increase pressure for high power applications. I wonder if that pulley design would cause undue wear on a daily...

As I recall you could see it with just the interior panel/liner removed. Though I was also removing the exterior handle so I'm not positive. I do remember either way it was tough to see and required *just* the right light to see the numbers.

You're right, great point. He would need the key code.

A Toyota dealer will make a key if you are able to provide a non-expired registration and some may require the title. Both must be in YOUR name. If oyu don't have those a Toyota dealer is not supposed to make you a key anymore. They used to do it off VIN or key code alone, but now will not do it...

All the parts to make a new CPS connection were available a couple years ago when I redid my harness. If needed, you should be able to completely redo that connection properly. I wouldn't solder anything there and make sure any splice crimps are high quality. No hardware store, generic insulated...

Got a Vortex Strikefire II for x-mas with a 3x vortex magnifier as well. Should be great for making range days more fun with the 5.56 AR-15. Also bought a SUPER cheap Simmons scope for my (more my wife's now) MP15-22. I didn't think sub-$50 scopes were worth anything, even on 22lr, but I'd heard...

11 is an ECU power related code, but I've had that multiple times and never successfully traced it back directly back to an ECU or specific wiring problem. I have, however, had other issues lead to a no start where code 11 has shown up. Aside from verifying power to the ECU I'd try messing with...