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You never mentioned what diagnostic codes your engine shows. What are they?

If your tps is adjusted far enough off, it could read zero throughout, i believe. And yes, it can run with a bad tps.

I was under the impression that Mustang dyno's read a bit higher that some others. But I can see your hp number being in the right ballpark. I would guess that you're up to at least 9psi. The oem boost gauge isn't very reliable. But like everyone said- that torque number is a bit off the norm. I...

Do you have a pic of the toe link installed?

Are you sure that ALL of your spark plugs are firing? Cause that's what the problem sounds like. If any water gets down in the spark valley, the plug wire will ground to the head, rather than send the spark to the plug. That, or two of the wires may be on the wrong plugs.

I also like that you saved a Supra from the scrap heap. The meteor grey is a rare color? I though it was rather common. Don't get me wrong- It's my favorite color! ps- Don't forget to swap out that passenger molding for the proper one.

I got 260whp/ 261 ft-lbs tq on mine at 7.5 psi. My mods at the time were full 3" exhaust, MAFT basic in suck-through, and ic with hardpipes. I think I benefited from a cooler intake charge than stock, and the only thing that the maft helped with is the ability to mess with afr's, compared to a...

Car looks good. So...What are you planning to do to it now?

How lean? It should be pretty lean at idle. With 560's, Walbro and a Lex AFM, you shouldn't be lean. Check your Neo adjustments?

We'll see. I checked the new spacers tonight, and they are almost fully cured. They seem to be just slightly harder than the original rubber, which is what i wanted. I have to go out of town for a few days, so I'll just let them sit on the bench, so I know that they'll be fully cured when I get...

Created new rear subframe poly spacers to tighten up the rear. After I reinstall the subframe, I move on to the front subframe restoration.

So, It looks nice. How does it RIDE? I'd like to know, because I haven'y gotten my car down off jacks yet.

Here's one firm enough to remove from the cup:

I do intend to use real leather, and perhaps a suede insert. I'm willing to pay the extra $$ for longevity.

So here's what I've been doing today. I had BIC nylon rear subframe bushings, but they were too noisy, transmitting too much of the diff noise into the car. If this were going to be a track car, I wouldn't care, as they do take out all the slop, but this is going to be a road car for 99% of its...

Sorry for spreading mis-information, I always thought 7M headbolts were TTY. I agree that ARP headstuds are not necessary for an NA. ps- I like your seats. I intend to do the same thing next month for my maroon interior, but I'll do the reverse- maroon seats with a black insert.

Do not re-use your head bolts. They are torque-to-yield, and as they have already been torqued at least once, they have already been stretched, and they should be replaced. Stock-type head bolts are very cheap.

Sounds like a weak battery. Question is- why was there smoke? Was it from overheating? If so- why did it overheat? Or was it something actually burning- if so, what?

What he said. Plus, I think Driftmotion probably uses Toyota o-rings. But regardless, I've never had an issue with any brand o-rings.