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That oil around the drain plug looks to have been sprayed there. I would expect it to be the output shaft seal.

Looks really great. Don't get rid of it, though.

"I cant give you a keyboard, but on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness..."

I would say plan on $50/10hp for the first 25hp, $150/10hp for the next 50, and $300/10hp for anything above that. But to be helpful, just focus on a freeflow intake, freeflow exhaust all the way up to the turbo, and shim the wastegate with 2 washers. That'll bump you from ~210whp to ~250+. And...

I believe that with the '91, you have an actual drain on the underside of the fuel tank. Like A.S. said, drain it, and put fresh in. Also, since you have to replace the valve cover gaskets, drain your oil, and refill while the covers are off. That'll give you the opportunity to pour the oil...

Damn it. I hate when i prove my own stupidity. Its easier to take when the burden of proof is on others. :)

Cool. Tell him to get back on SM!

Um. He hasn't updated in almost 3 yrs, so he may not hear you.

Well, i dont normally comment on other people's fecal matter, but that's one really pretty turd you have there.

Lol. See? If they had named it the tail light invincible box, we probably wouldn't EVER have problems with it... I crack myself up sometimes... Anyway, yes. Mkiiichip has a good a suggestion.

Aha, never knew that the studs were specifically 9/16. Is the average 9/16 socket slightly narrower or slightly wider than 14mm? I'm wondering for the purposes of ease of socket fitment past the cams.

Ah, but i have a gates racing belt, and its definitely better than oem because... ...it's blue. ...so i've got that going for me....which is nice.

Yeah, i rebuilt my rear suspension with the subframe on the floor. And i also have the Weir stage 1, and orange ronnie k. Bushings. Pretty similar builds,h Eh?

I always ask, but did the shop also deck the timing cover? Welcome back. And don't call it a turd, call it a TRD. :)

Oh, i might have a couple.

Rebuilt the cps today. Screw the outer O-ring... It's that inner seal that turns hard as a rock and leaks...

Sorry to hear about this, but it'll be good that you can actually drive it again. I'm jealous of you for that. :)

Got some little parts in the mil today: m3.6 screws for the butterfly in the throttle body, DM pulley kit, CPS rebuild kit, Prothane strut rod bushings(but those are for the MR2), and an M14x1.25 tap. Turns out the screws(from Hong Kong) for the throttlebody are 6mm in length instead of 8mm...

So you're getting the ge and the gte? Good news. it really seemed like rebuilding that original grenaded ge motor would have been a futile move. Getting it changed from rear sump to front sump? I thought it would be the other way around.

Great info, and thanks for the link Albert.