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what are your mods?

DOH! lol, oh well, no harm, wierd it didn't show up in a search though

LOL, i searched for it but hopefully this isn't a repost. Introducing D.E.I. :biglaugh: http://www.gmmodernmuscle.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2779&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Edit: if this is a repost those who havn't seen it, highly recommended. Funniest part is even after all the...

but the shifter is clearly out of gear?

yes

do you have a wideband?

gayness, i was actually going to say that. My other answer was going to the 2miles to the gas station was a radial measurement and actually took 15miles on the road to get to the gas station 2miles away from the highway. hence the 30 mile difference. problem solve another way...

No, j-tube is a safety feature for mostly stock cars. You could build one with the right know how and parts but i would NOT recommend it at all, don't forget vacuum plays a big part with feul control. Feul is also very corrosive. Yes but, if you build one or buy one then there is no need...

Your rings are bad in that cylander or did not set right, get new ones. The white-blue smoke is burning oil. Your compression test proved the rings were bad, fix that and youll be fine

correct me if im wrong but clutch chatter to me is more choppy engagement accompanied by vibrations, like a shuttering as if you let the clutch out too quick. This is a straight grinding noise accompanied by vibration even if the gear is NOT engaged remember

Dont know. I don't have any place to pull it here at school. The clutch holds fine and doesnt slip at all. The vibration only happens if it heats up. Example: on a steep hill and need to let the clutch out slowly so you dont stall, depending how long i need to burn up the clutch thats when...

So i noticed if the clutch is getting hot i get a strong vibration in the clutch as i let it out. I sounds and feels like its grinding a gear....but it does it when a gear isn't even engaged???? what the hell is going on here? If i press in the clutch all the way its okay, but once i hit the...

IS it possible this is from a bad tune?

.032gap NGK level 6 heat range plug

Pulled plug 6 and 4 to check what they look like with about 2.5K miles on em: Pics came out a bit blurry but they seem like they are much more black then they should be. Spark #6 a Spark #6 b Spark #4 Also wondered if anyone could tell me if this wire should be attatched...

well i just realized they MAY be copper. I have the V-power's by NGK. I can't find if they are copper or platinum tipped though?? EDIT turns out V-power are copper core plugs.

Ill try this but i figured resistance checking the coil packs would do the job. All coil packs are recieving 12V's as well, but ill try this just in case. Who knows, maybe somehow the wires are bad already?

any particular reason why? they are recomended and all but i have seen this before. Also, ive had the same problem through two different types of NGK plugs, one expensive one cheap, what are the odds of that?

plugs used originally were NGK-R (laser cut) EDIT: I'm using NGK v-power, which are copper

surprisingly he was quite encouraging saying how i could definately take him if i notch the boost up a bit, a tune wouldn't hurt though. i know him and the fact it was his dad's car he didn't really take it personally like other people would.