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I find it unlikely, i mean thats a 20-30+WHP and 40-50+RWTQ GAIN over just about every other dyno'd stock 7m i've ever seen posted on this site.... Not on our cars/turbo cars in general

read posts above :icon_bigg . No torque will be lost until the shaft has reached its yeild point in which case it would more than likely break shrotly thereafter anyway

i don't get it...how can that be? outputting to the wheels just about the same numbers as the engine specs with no mods...was this rebuilt with a slightly higher CR?

input torque will still be transferred to the bolt and have the same output torque. your are inputing just as much as the bolt is resisting reguardless of twist. The actual drawback and any inaccuracies that would be present actually only involves friction, hence lube can be used and torque...

no, if that knocking gets louder as you quickly rev the throttle then you need to look into it more... but again, you need to look even more into that turbo

ever hear of curb weight? ;)

wow, stop doing that immediately. you see blue smoke coming out near your turbo and hear a rattling/clicking noise right around the time your turbo spools....what do this tell you to start looking at? i also hear a knocking noise from your engine....could be very loud valve tap but i don't think...

You're confusing the concept of torque and energy. True, it takes work to twist off a bolt and any energy you put into it must go somewhere. In this case, not ALL the energy will be transferred to directly removing the bolt. Some of the energy will be absorbed by the longer extension because...

Pull a spark plug at a time and turn over the engine...see if you're getting spark on all your plugs

This means the ECU is getting the signal from the CPS

The key thing you should be looking for right now is whether the tach moves at all when you crank the engine

i find on just about any forum, either way you can potentially make an ass out of yourself.

just be sure its rod knock....all i have to say...its too hard to tell from that vid. I was convinced i had it last week....turned out to be that my aftermarket timing gears failed

piston slap, odds are your block was bored out of spec causing the noise. Either go with new pistons to fit the correct size or new block bored PROPERLY (given the pistons are okay to use again)

and? Windows Vista came out LONG after XP......does that make it better/more reliable??

You're not catching on too quickly here....he doesn't live in california like a lot of you lucky guys but he lives in PA where temps actually drop BELOW 40*. Now i know thats a hard concept to grasp for some of you california natives but in certain places of the world...it happens :sarcasm:

+1

meh, it happens...live and learn

edit....hmmm might need customized bearings...they'd have to be rather thick. personally i wouldn't do it....just get a thicker headgasket

my question is.....if you knew you had a problem like this...especially like code 11 (i mean really, temp loss power to ECU...hello? not good) why would you be running your car hard like that?? What do you expect?? Its not like you're throwing a code 51 or something....