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WOO! I win :biglaugh: lol At least ive answered one question right today....better than i can say for my dynamics of machines test :nono::3d_frown:

Just to clear things up here.....I remembered this post from rather recent thread....from MDC himself FYI ;)

i could be wrong, im no turbo expert by far but two things come to mind: siezed/failed bearings (lack of lubrication, excessive heat maybe) broken shaft (foreign object damage most likely)

well i think they just need to continue the JZ-series engine and put out a 3.5L 3JZGTE :love: Oh, and it should be able to be dropped into an MKIII with ease lol. Go to work Toyota!

good kill i guess, it just seems not to add up at all. I mean 7lbs with those mods....he should have pulled you with ease. I personally put down 260RWHP/TQ on 7lbs on a tune with all my mods. I only got to about 7lbs b/c of some major boost leaks that the ECU didn't pick up on. On another...

I will most likely be using their WB setup soon. Ill let everyone know how it is. BTW, a manager at a local aftermarket parts store i know highly recommends them and since he's hooking me up with a discount....its impossible to pass up how cheap they are with the functionality they offer.

I simply cannot rid myself of this high idle. Its hovering around 1000RPM. If i adjust the timing via CPS i can get it as low as 730RPM ish but then my timing is WAAAY off, well after (clockwise) the 0* TDC mark on the crank pulley. At 10* its around 1050RPM. Yes, the ECU terminals are...

For the more mature, analytical group: Crash City of God

Well, for one, check your dash fuses Two, make sure you didn't move the dimmer switch to the off position.....i've done that before and tore the dash apart thinking it was something else....stupid mistake but it happens

take one out and measure them compared to your old ones and you'll have your answer why this is happening ;) While one is out, make sure the plug fittings properly fit together

+1 This makes a big difference if the BOV is vented atmospherically,,,but then again he's running MAP, so its not like he's blowing metered air before it gets to the engine like the AFM would do. I mean, i run a atm vented HKS SSQV and don't have problems with stalling even with the Lex AFM...

So, the SD sensor runs off a vac line from IM? Or the IM has to be tapped for the SD sensor? :nono: :biglaugh::biglaugh:

arnt the sensors in the IC piping? typically anyway? what if the SD sensor was before the BOV and thats where the leak was?

Is your BOV and WG holding in the boost?? If not, well you'll run so rich you'll flood the engine and die....though, I don't know if speed density would detect that or not, not sure exactly how it works.

1. Country of Origin Japan 2. Manufacturer Toyota 3. Vehicle Type Passenger Car Vehicle Description Section (V.D.S.) 4. Body Type / Drive Type 5DR Door Van 2WD 5. Engine Type 3MZ-FE 6. Series 7 7. Restraint System / Grade: Manual Belt / 1 STD 8. Model Line: Land Cruiser 9...

do a search for boost leak tester

boost leak, at 1.5-1.7K RPM? mmm not quite.

first thought is an injector issue

You've never been to the morgantown club scene.....its retarded :3d_frown: The only thing i really wanted to do is file a report, i don't care about sueing or anything (unless i had perm damage), its just hard to do if none of the damn cops care to report it:nono:. Personally i just...

quite a delayed response but ended up not being rod knock :) actually is was a failed aftermarket cam gear :3d_frown: