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^i never wash my hands, unless i just came outta the shower or something, or they are really really dirty.

^odds are, improper installation, make sure the correct lines are going to supply and return inputs

^lol, don't think ive done that....yet

Just out of curiousity, has anyone ever gotten really drunk and tried to take out your contacts...but they were already out and you didn't realize it, and you think "oh they're just really glued on there from being in too long" ultimately causing your eye a world of hurt? :biglaugh: I did that...

jj is leading you right where you need to go. One thing though, did you adjust it all the way? I know my A1000 took a lot of screwing before it actually started to raise the pressure heres a few shots of mine to help you understand whats going on inside: BAD diaphram ( I had a...

14-15 PSI i assume? Your car shouldn't even be running. Its possible the diaphram is bad (torn or not seating properly) . If its torn you'd smell a lot of fuel not to mention it would be flooding your vac system. edit: you do realize you can adjust the FPR right?

^don't see how it doesn't work that way, if you add X amount of energy to something it will go up by Y amount of degrees. Obviously there are many other factors but getting to basics, that's where were at, your final temps are based on your initial starting point. am i looking at this the...

^a nasty one, its still lurking. I didn't realize i went through an entire 1/5 of capt., damn, now i gotta buy more.

^would it be a short that causes this? or is there actually a trip that will cause it to go into diag mode?

I will be gaining a margin. My goal is simply to stay below the 210* mark when timing is affected. We both understand the T-stat will be closed until the spec temp is reached. Assume stock at 192*, my operating temps under normal cruising condition are 190-195*. Now lets say i make a pass...

i hate you tyler lol

^does the light stay constant or does it flash?

^i am aware how a T-stat works. The ecu chimes in iirc at 176*, a 180 would be suited just fine. Currently i have a 192 (stock), temp stays right around 190-195 except after a boost run in which it can hit upwards of 215 on the very hot days, a 180* would allow me to still be in the ECU...

its all good in the neighborhood whatever that means

don't know who gutted t-stat. I would prefer 180* tstat, though i know you like the 192* stock set stat. B/c of my situation the 180 is better suited. On another note. like i said 220+ is extreme. im am fully aware of 210 timing issues. one reason why i'd like to resort to 180*tstat as it would...

im gonna hold comment on this to prevent your own embarrassment ;)

^under load around 210, 220 tops. im aware after 210 it affects timing but nothing else sig. has affected the system. feel free to let me know where the "stupidity" lies IJ. highest temp ever was around 235-240, i blew a rad pipe while in traffic, i pulled off when i realized i went...

damnit, lol, how'd this get in the GE section?

^that would be a good thing

edit: keep in mind, this was over an hour into the drive, not the start by any means this was my T-stat, i had no idea until later, not my doing, previous owner: mine gets colder and colder too. proof. this run ran colder than the temp guage would register, i never took a pic of it...