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muchas gracias senor

I've got all kinds of parts laying around 'cause I'm always on the make for supra parts. I'm like horny for them...it's sick. Anyway, I get a 22 code and I reach into my bin of tricks and come out with a thermo (the one on top of the thermostat housing that says 22 and nd on it) and it's all...

Stuck check valve in master cylinder. Probably caused by all the chunkies floating around in the system. Just cleaning the system probably won't do it. Your gonna have to really flush the hell out of it and more then likely replace that master cylinder or it's gonna keep happening

Sounds like loose IC pipe or hose, boost leak would explain the power drop off.

No...that's the deal, Toyota don't come cheap. Wait till you have to shell out $239 for an itty bitty knock sensor. If you want to dance you gotta pay the band.

IMHO this is the best advice. I finally got mine right...atleast it seems right and the resistence values are all within spec. No more jerky throttle response. I know there is no way I could have gotten it right trying to hold the two little pointers and turn the TPS and look at the gauge...

What about just running temporary (for diagnostic puposes only) fuel in and return lines just to see if it alleviates the problem. In other words get like 20' of fuel line and just run it out board (preferably along the same route as the suspect permanent line) and see if the car runs...

Hey Shaeff-I've been following this and WOW! Mind Bogglling! I really have to give you credit for not having gone insane or on a shooting spree. I was curious did you ever get your injectors sounding right or get them looked at? I remember this was an issue when this nightmare first came to...

Yup! 2-2x4's a 1/2 drive breaker bar and a cheater pipe and abra-kadabra she's off!!!

Sorry Jeff...I guess I'm getting a little frustrated with what seems like it should be an easy task...either that or I've suddenly become a retard.

EXACTLY!!! This thing is a piece of shit! I need like two more arms. And as far as the TSRM goes "turn TPS untill needle deflects then tighten screws" WTF does that mean? I've asked three different electronics "experts" and got three different answers. As for the guys who said "it's easy" I...

I was t-t-told I c-c-could k-k-keep m-my stapeler... Anybody know what the term "untill the needle deflects" means when refering to resistance?

72 is about max they say with stock headbolts but I had a set torqued to 85 with no problems. Only thing is if you use the stock headbolts (more so then the ARP's) make sure you retorque them after 6 or 7 heat cycles. After that they seem to hold their torque pretty well. Oh...tap and clean...

The TSRM seems a little vague on this subject to me. So I'm wondering what is the best way to adjust the TPS? Car running or not? If off...key on? If you read that passage of the TSRM on step 1 it says start the car and when you look on the next page for step 2 it never says turn car off, only...

I ran a straight-back 3 1/2" and a zero restriction silencer (didn't do much silencing, it was the equivialent of a beer can with a napkin in it) for as long as I could take it...about 2 days! Cops were pulling me over...scaring the crap out of old people and little kids, all my neighbors...

Hey Bigaaron, ...that is smokin'. I never really considered that amount of ice and now I realize my life is incomplete! How does the internet access work...cellular transmision? What kind of rate for mobile Internet access? Reliable? Who's a good I.P. Anything to avoid when going this...

Congratulations and Good luck!!!

...you cry way too easy... :cry:

On a cheery note you just became a guy who knows from experience. Welcome to the club. I've done everything wrong at least once I think. It should get easier from here. :biglaugh:

As a matter of fact there is a point- the difference between rr wheel hp and putting the power on the pavement. It's not the same thing. Agreed? Pretty simple huh?