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Also, if you're getting any noise from the rear (clunking) it's probably your rear lower shock bushings. They make a hell of a racket when the go out.

Thannks buddy!!! I finally narrowed it down to a bad MAF. Seems it was shorted internally and telling the ecu not to send any spark. Fixed! I appreciate your help though and would be glad to return same if you're ever in need. Thanks again.

I had a similar experience with a non-toyota turboed car years ago. Total rebuild and it smoked white like mad, huge clouds and after 20 miles it went away. Turned out the valves hadn't quite seated and I was getting blow-by. Once the valves got comfy in their seats problem stopped all at once...

Nothing huh? C'mon one of your wiring geniuses has to know something, help me out! I am but a simple frozen caveman, thawed out in your modern era! I don't understand internal combustion or modern electronics. I think there is a small animal (possible a dinosor) under my hood that pushes my...

:1zhelp: I cant figure it out...no spark from the coil on my NA/T. I checked the green four prong connector going in to the coil and igniter (it's an n/a coil and distributor) and there are four wires going in only one of which has power when ignition is turned on. Is that supposed to be like...

Yeah, It can be done, in fact, it's done all the time. You are right about detonation, get a boost controller. That will keep you out of trouble. Also, if you can put your hands on turbo ECU, wiring harness, CPS, and ignition coils you'll get alot more power out of your motor. Watch the...

Long story short, I need a new hood and am thinking about C/F. I am more concerned with fit and asthetics than I am with weight (so shoot me) and I was wondering if you use your stock hood hardware or lockdown pins and different hinges or what? How much $$$? I know some of you guys...

Amen! I think you would be best off to review shaeff's first post and forget all the NOS and run rich bullshit. In the end you get what you pay for...if you're smart and you think it out. Otherwise you'll end up throwing money away and crying the blues. IMHO.

Anybody???

I replaced the alternator and it still goes dead for a second or two, not often, like maybe every other day. It feels electric, my volts stay constant on the gauge and my vacuum doesn't register any change on my vacuum gauge. If it would just completly take a shit then at least I would be...

This definintly would be the way to go and if you could pirate it from a junker probably cheaper as well as more effective.

turbo trans had tougher clutch packs that's all the difference as far as I know.

Is it possible it could be fuel pump or canl the alternator definitely cause this kinda problem?

I'll be driving along and all is well and suddenly my supra momentarily loses power, just dies for a second and I can hear the main fuse (circuit breaker under the passenger kick panel clicking on and off so I think it's electric) I've checked the wires under the hood but I can't find the source...

If its just water shop vac it out and blow dry the residual and the inside of the plug connectors, works like a charm.

Does anyone know how the MKIII crash tested? Did it vary from year to year? Any personal experiences (gotta be)?

What would cause the open circuit relay (behind passanger kickpanel) to keep clicking on and off? Mine keeps clicking and my idle is bouncing up and down and my supra keeps stalling. I checked the relay per TSRM and it checks out fine so I figure something else must be causing it to continually...

I don't think it's vacuum on mine as I have a gauge and it doesn't seem to fluctuate, although I haven't eliminated the possibility. Somebody out there has had this prob, C'mon somebody help us out...please.

Just like the title says I have this weird thing going on. All of the sudden my car doesn't want to idle, usually after I've driven it a while, shut it down and then restarted it. What happens is the idle starts bouncing around and then it feels like it going to stall and the whole time I can...

You could always drain the sump cut a hole with a plasma cutter get your allen head out and weld er back up. I know it sounds radical but I bet I could do the whole thing in 30 minutes (providing it didn't catch fire). Keep a extinguisher nearby.