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Hard to tell alot from pictures but, you're right about #4 and #6. On the bright side, you have 2 pistons out of the 6 that are going to be easier to clean....:sarcasm: Look for cracks between the valve seats and between the combustion chambers, where the metal is thinist. This is...

They almost always fall apart if the motor's never been out. My brother and I pulled the motor out of his truck last weekend and you could hear the mounts creaking as we lifted the engine. I thought maybe we missed a bolt on the mounts somewhere, and when we looked down at the motor...

JDM, Australian. Timbucktoo...wherever it came from, it's gotta be a bunch lighter than the electric one. Sounds like a winner to me. Plus once you get it where you want, who cares whether it's electric or not. Painless weight loss if you ask me. :icon_bigg

Spoken like a man wise beyond his years. :icon_bigg

One more thought...you can always cut the bolt off with a cut-off wheel or if you don't have pneumatic tools you can use a dremel. Better than heating-up a fuel line or busting your knuckles.

I'd hold off on torching that fuel line... You're talking about where the line bolts to the support at the bottom of the engine right? Not where it connects with the pulsation dampener up top. Either way you have two choices...penetrating oil or heat. Are you using a 12 pt socket (so...

Try some penetrating oil and let it sit for awhile. Your probably going to have to replace the banjo bolt anyway since it's probably corroded from being in the head for so long (which would explain why it's not coming out). I've had them stick and be somewhat difficult, but not that bad...

Four hours is good for the first time, and nobody would argue that it's easy to overlook something like that. I just pictured a skinny teenage kid trying to lift the head off and... :rofl: (started laughing again) I'm sorry, it's still funny. Congrats, you did great. .

I have never seen a Supra without a drivers side electric anchor....I mean seat. I've actually considered taking a passanger seat and using it on the drivers side, probably save 50lbs. Does it have all the adjustments like the electric one, only manual, or is it just like the passenger side?

He's kidding right? I got an idea...get Pee-Wee Herman to grab the other end of the head.:sarcasm: (crying I'm laughing so hard...god...I crack me up) .

Nine pages on a cupholder??? No wonder most cars suck, this must be the kind of crap focus groups key in on. Nine pages!!! Wholy God. What's next a ten page thread on lighted vanity mirrors?:3d_frown:

I see why you might think so, but the targa does not create the same single piece connection from the "a pillar" to the "b pillar". Also, the a pillar, roof line and b pillar are critical points of triangulation. I'm not sure that even the targa brace would do it. Somebody who fabricates...

Hardtop, is a better driving car. Undisputable. I own a hard-top, and every other supra I've driven (besides mine) has had a targa, and I can immediately feel the difference...top on or off. It's amazingly obvious. Way more flex than I would ever have imagined. Plus, targa's understandably...

As rigid?...More rigid?...than a hard-top? And you believe this???:sarcasm:

How are you measuring your boost? Through an onboard gauge right? Maybe your boost readings are not accurate. (i.e. Gauge f'd?) Might want to a/b it with another gauge and see if it reads similar or there is a huge discrepancy. Otherwise it's gonna be pretty hard to get readings that make any...

For what he's trying to find out we're talking about straight. FWIW, a machinists straight-edge is worth it's weight in gold and I'm always surprised how handy the thing is, and how often I use it (avoid dropping). If you can find anyway to measure or get the top of the block measured to...

I went back to the pictures and looked again, I can't see how this would help a targa, since the problem there is no triangulation (where the removable panel comes out), and this clearly is not meant to address that. I'm sure there's something here, I'm just not sure what.

That makes sense, but are we talking about stiffening-up the chassis with this brace or ? I'm in no way being negative, I'm just a little unclear on what the goal is here. :icon_conf

Yep, I forgot to mention that in my first post. Only the most important thing. Big hp + auto trans - trans cooler = dead transmission. :icon_bigg

Big rotors made of high quality metal (Kryo'ed?), multi-piston calipers, great management system as well as high quality everything. I am not a huge BMW fan, but I gotta say... I've driven a few M5's and they do have great stoppers, especially for stock.