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Just like most cars the more you work on it the easier it gets.

I'd try to fix the crank(pics?) with the flywheel being cocked the way it was, would cause the vibration. And with the clutch assembly mounted to it would have added a lot of un-balance. I guess see what happens when you put it back together. I hope you haven't messed up the crank bearings due...

He said 3 weeks ago for the HG. Should have burn off any residue anywere. Any way he could be sucking coolant? Like maybe not machining the head before the HG replacement, or just not a good HG seal?

Check the TSRM. they mount on top of the struts, hence the name "strut bar"

Marked the PP before you unbolted it so it can be installed in the same spot if you are going to reuse the PP. Did you have the vibration while driving or just free reving?

And you have a dependable NA to drive while the turbo sits in the garage waiting on parts:biglaugh:

Did you set it according to the TSRM? You also said the timing was "darn close". Did you check it with a light and jumping TE1 and E1?

Yeah but why under deceleration? Maybe it's not really white smoke or he has a problem with the HG repair? Usally if it's condensation it burns off fairly soon.

I don't like wire nuts, I use blue masking tape it shows up better.

Did you check the timing? Gap your plugs

Did you have the valve stem seals replaced?

Yeah....Don't know why, but it should be fixed. Did you read CRE's post? The FC switch is required by law, it's there to cut the fuel if the engine were to come to a stop but the ignition left in an ON state. It's not safe to have the FP running, pumping fuel when the car isn't running.:nono:

Still need more info, plugs, timing, etc, etc. Idle is set by ECU. If timing is advanced to far, could cause it, too many things to list that would cause it to do what you describe.

How about mounting them closer to the wall or even on the wall?

Should be easy enough to install. I'm sure Home Depot, hardware store, would have what you need. Drill, carbide bit, hooks, concrete anchors to mount the hooks. Shouldn't be that hard.

Could be several things. Timing, tune up, etc. Need more info as to what you have done, haven't done to try to nail down the problem.

I would not as to the valve job. they have the tools and experience, just me. I know some guys would do it themself. Make sure you take it to somebody that has worked on these type of heads. I remember one member on here not to long ago had a problem with the shims missing and the machinest...

I'd say the PP takes more punishment than the flywheel. Always replace the PP with the disk, the PP has springs that get weak with use and like poodles said it's a good idea to have the flywheel turned and clean up so the new clutch will break in properly.

They have to be there, it's the only way to adjust the lash. There's like a little recess in the bucket that they sit in.

TSRM will show you. They sit on top of the buckets(lifters). They are different sizes. A lot of times, after they do the valve job, they just grind the top of the valve stem to get the proper lash.