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I wondered the same and wondered how he got them on with the caps backwards.

I would have let the shop do that. Everything has to be put back were it came from, i.e. valves, springs, buckets, shims, etc. I hope you kept everything in order so they can be reassembled in the same place they came out of? They have to disassemble everything to do a valve job, and they have...

Still haven't heard the noise? Is your level still holding?

Yeah, TB support bracket is one I can't remember what the others are for, I got some plastic plugs to fit to cover them. Doesn't completely seal the holes but helps. I cover that area now that it's mostly clean with towels, plastic, when I'm going to clean it to keep the water from going down in...

I usally just take it to the shop, have them clean it and check it. If it's OK then I would have them do a valve job on it, check everything else out, check valve lash( probably have to have that done with valve job), valve stem seals, cam shaft seals, etc.

Check the TSRM. I have my FP resistor disabled and mine just builds pressure then shuts off. Maybe Fuel Pressure regulator is stuck and not building up pressure.

Clutch looks a little toasty also.

Bummer. The vibration, was that happening after the clutch install? If so could have been that. I'd still do the best you can with the crank in place, just knock off the high spots. Being that close to the center of rotation may not be to bad as far as balance. We'll wait for the pics. Did you...

Yep, and is going to be fun trying to line up everything back up. You'll proabably have to drop the tranny anyway.

No offense but it seems like there has been a lot of threads posted lately that you have to pull info from the writers, like JJ said about 20 questions. It's what we mean about posting everything you have done, noticed, tried already, etc.,etc. You, I, and most others don't know it all, nor do...

Some of the big fuses are circuit breakers and can be reset. Check the TSRM to find which ones control your problem area and check them.

Well said JJ. I was trying to be nice, and just trying to help.

Three counting mine. Didn't say you were a moron. Somebody asked a simple question, what else were you working on. I took the time to look up your previous thread and gave that info, which you didn't post in this thread. You have to give people as much info as you can so they can help. I simply...

I think he said in the other thread he posted in the Gen. Sec. that he rewired the stereo also???I'll bet he didn't disconnect the battery when he was working on it and may have shorted out something in the process. Funny how he said that he wasn't getting any response from the other section and...

Turkey baster workes real well to get a lot of it out, works better than all that oil in your shop vac. Then just keep at it with paper towels.

Yeah, depends on how bad it is, how many miles on the motor, If a lot I'd use it as a excuse to rebuild. If it's not too bad, try to cut down the high spots and see what happens. No more than have to rebuild it which is what the garage wants to do now, right?

I was afraid of that... I guess you could try to smooth it out with a file, grinder, dremel, something like that, to take the high spots off. Loctite, I think the red is the strong stuff, just read on the container. I think I would try to fix it in the car if you can, don't know how bad it is...

You could still have a code without the light on.

When retorquing on a head gasket that's been installed for a while you have to realize there is the chance that the metal jackets may have become brittle and may crack if you do retorque the head bolts. Doing it in numerous small passes and not trying to go as high as would otherwise be...

I guess you found out were the oil was RUNNING from. I wish I had this kind of help before I started messing up things on mine. Good luck on the second try.