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I'm just going off of what Ive seen. my 88 turbo parts car came with a white box. I can't tell ya if it was the right box though.. But my 90 wingless came with a yellow box and it was the right box. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Pre 89 Winged is white cant remember pre 89 wingless post 89 wingless is yellow post 89 w/ 3 pc is white.

If the coating on the gas tank is anything like the undercoating, then a sand blaster wont cut it. I used a wire wheel in a grinder and it still took days just to do the wheel wells in my car.

1990 Non Turbo hard top.. Just about the lightest supra there is. :P W58 Full tank of gas Me and my dad in it, 3850 pounds Just me would be 3630 With no one in it (such a useless statistic...) 3470 (But it does make me feel better about buying such a heavy car.. :P)

Stick with the stock clutch fan. Unless you're going super oversized aluminum rad..

Plus if you can do all the work your self and don't send the car to a shop, then buying a rusty car would most likely be cheaper.. Not only in the price of the car but the fact that you have to pay to go down to those southern states and pay to get the car back.. And like Grandavi said, you...

I think N/A pistons are just fine, as long as you have a solid tune, atleast for a build still using the CT-26. If you were going higher than say 350 whp then id upgrade the pistons.

I just don't see it being the tie rods as they are in good condition. Very little free play in the wheel, and no slack in the tie rods themselves. Im leaning towards bushings now..

Everything in the steering system is tight. I have less than an inch of freeplay in the wheel.

Well i put some torque on that center brace. Driver side was surprisingly tight and the passenger side was about a quarter turn until it was tight.. still didnt solve my popping issue. So far ive torqued the subrame, Torqued sway bar end links torqued sway bar mount/bushing/thing and torqued...

The real question is.. Why would you need a *torque* damper on a 1J? :icon_bigg

Does anyone know if the root of this issue could be the subframe brace being loose? I thought it looked a little loose but didn't think much of it. Now I'm starting to think i should have tightened it up a little. Anyone know the torque specs for it?

You could always put softer springs on your tiens, and then soften the damping when you aren't at the track.

Someone needs to make conversion brackets. It seems like I see threads just like this one every week.

Re-creating the fender edge was the simplest part of my rust repair.. The first time i tried it I would just sand the top with 240 grit with a sponge behind it, (So you dont leave pressure points with your fingers) and then sand the bottom slightly to create a lip.. That didnt go so well and...

Anyone have any suggestions as to what else to look for?

All N/A's- 4.3 Sport Models had TEMS and LSD Pre 89 Turbo- 3.9 LSD Post 89 Turbo- 3.7 LSD

Just a tip. You can't just buy Rhinoliner, it only comes with the spray job.. And any spray on bed liner wont be the consistency you want for undercoating. With my restoration I seam sealed after POR-15, then sprayed on a couple coats of wal-mart bed liner, and decided that wasn't what i...

I would assume thats the transmission kick down cable.. In which case he does need it. Hes swapping a engine that came out of a 5 speed car into his automatic car. Swap throttle bodies.

Torqued to spec.