Hmmm either some sort of oil additive or if the engine is freshly rebuilt its engine assembly lube.
Also, it could be water or alchohol that has been blended with the oil.
Yeah I think I found me a keeper...
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Easy fix to this.... there is hose that comes off the steel coolant lines under the intake. Run that hose to the nipple off the front of the head, just under the alt. The nipple up front will be attached to the intake plunnum/runners.
Nor do you have a 2jz or a mk4.
Also, think twice about a "race engine shop" unless you know the shop's ability to do an engine to correct specs.
Alot of race engines are built sloppy due to the fact they want the most performance out of them for a short time.
Boring actually removes move than honing.
In your case, I wouldn't worry about to bore or to hone, but you need to make sure your cyl walls aren't egg shaped or tapered.
Then make a choice.
IF the cyl walls are aok and straight and round, then you could go through with a light hone with...
Actually you guys went down the wrong road.... I have heard of reworked stock injectors and the venoms STICK OPEN and go static, causing massive hydrolocking of the cyl and thus throwing a rod out the side of the block.
All the "gaskets in a tube" that I have used for an oil pan have leaked.
The cork works great, its just it has to be torqued and torqued correctly or it WILL LEAK.
Any thing over 5 ft lbs is kililng a cork gasket.
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