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I don't think 99.9% of newbs know what "research" or "search" means lol. :-p

Mattonedime: Thanks for clearing that up. I have seen on my supras over the years drivelines with serviceable joints and factory ones. I guess it depends in Justins case if some one has already been in there and torn it apart.

Good luck with insurance..... also - every honda ricer in the world is going to be spying your tail lights.

Well if all you have is two wires left - those would be eaiser to track down than all of them.

Well first the headgasket really depends on how well you surface the block and head. The HKS stopper type (or most stopper type IIRC) require you to o ring the block. This is not cheap. If the surface on the deck of the block and head are good to go and or newly machined - go with the...

Yes wait. You'll hate yourself the first time you go to roll from under the car and you leave greasy fingerprints all over your nice new painted door.

Well its kinda guesswork..... sorry man I went through the same thing. I think all needles are to be pointed down - not sure about the boost or volt gauge though.

Im too lazy right now to look, but what is code 24 in the tsrm.

Sounds to me like you have a major boostleak or the AFM is dead. Also be sure to check that you have the TPS plugged in.

IF the auto trans has been on regular ATF for its life, it will die a horrible mooshy death if switched to full synthetic.

Springs? Care to elaborate?

Justin: You may have to get the torch out to heat the u joints to pop the 10+ year caps out, but other than that IIRC the joints are like every other car or truck.

Jim: I have the fittings to convert the system to a AFPR and fuel pulsation dampner removal. Besides that IIRC you are to remove the bolt that goes into the cold start injector and attach a hight pressure hose and gauge to check for fuel pressure. Im not sure what the size is on the CSI though.

Contact Empera here on the boards, he might be able to help.

If its the single prong sensor you're in luck - just cut the wire and attach a female spade connector and wala!

For 300hp you don't need an upgraded ct, a good stock one will do just fine. We rebuild CT26s here at the shop, just pm me. And no the t25 will not bolt on.

Using the lex and stock injectors & FPR is not ok. Welcome btw.

Glad to see you're back! Hope all is well!

I don't think it will. IIRC the mines ECU lacks the fuel cut, the speed (rpm cut or raises it) and has better fuel & ignition maps.

Have you tried looking under machine shops in the yellow pages? Any body with a mill and knowledge on how to run it should be able to help you out.