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hehe :) well the graph is RPM vs Power so if he backed off and the revs dropped it would go backwards!, id say he was changing into the right gear yeah i might pre-load the actuator more, it does hold pretty stead and its as if the gates blowing open, look at the actual spool, its very steady...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoWd04HUclw clutch slips :( aslong as i don't preload the clutch it seems to hold, (have to drop a gear before i accelerate) I'll be looking at a twin plate probably.

as promised here at the graphs, had to use a diffrent scanner at work to beable to see the actual lines! "the dyno graph did backflips.." Power run Boost, Notice it spikes to 17 and drops to 16 where it makes peak power

as i cant get any movement out of the valve i've blocked off the Idle valve port for now, it may have been causing issues, i've tightened up the bov alot now as well, its the same setup i was running with a AFM, id notice a airleak on that setup... I think ill get a boost gauge onto boost...

411.5rwhp (306.9rwkw) 379.6ft/lb (514.8nm) 7mgte, more or less stock rebuilt motor, cometic/arps, 3 angle valve grind T61 @ 16psi 3" turbo back exhaust, haltech e6x 835cc injectors & walbro 255, 600x300 intercooler on boost its about 11.8:1 afr

Tightened up the BOV and removed the idle valve and blocked it off for now (can't get any movement out of the valve for some strange reason) Car idles good again, turns out my dropping tach signal (to gauge) was a issue with the ecu, had to load a different tune and reload mine. I've got a mate...

that's alot of torque :P could you put it down? was it a roller dyno or dynapac? i don't intend on pushing my setup over 20psi i've got half a hole preload currently, the tuner thinks i may have a vac leak somewhere. he couldn't get my throttle pump/idle right due to a underlying issue :( its...

yeah did get boost vs rpm, ill scan it tomorrow at work 515nm @ 5600rpm, not sure what this is in ft/lb he said it should make over 600nm but full boost didn't come in till high rpm he did a run @ 5psi too, made 180rwkw. the car wont put down any power atm, its a little damp, need a nice cold...

306rwkw @ 5800rpm, 16psi, 98 octane pump fuel , cant get the turbo to boost over 16psi atm and boost comes on laaaate... with the actuator disconnected from the controller max pressure it see's is 16psi... 306rwkw = 410rwhp i believe full boost by 5500rpm! :( seems like a boost leak... the...

you are correct, about to go pick the car up.... havn't heard from the tuner yet. so it either A) all went to plan B) a rod left the block and they're still trying to figure out what to tell me I'm hoping for A! ill report back in 2-3 hours. ---------- Post added at 04:30 PM ----------...

nice car but WTF is with that track, people standing next to a car when it launches?

nice video I wouldn't go that far but the worlds oil supply is not going to last for ever either.

Managed to sneak in early due to a cancellation, dropped the car off tonight and pick up tomorrow! should have a result by tommorrow :D

does it start to run rough when this happens? any black smoke out the exhaust? Reminds me of the noise when i forgot to tighten a hose clamp and metered air was venting before any pressure could build. I'd go over every inch of the cooler piping, Are you still running the stock blow off valve?

my 57 let go before i could get it dyno'd sorry! went out for a logging run, decided to get a video entering the free way, only running 7.0psi now for some weird reason, I'm also shifting early round 5000rpm as its still got a bit of work to be done on the tune, its going to sit in my garage...

i'm putting it down to a combination of incorrectly configured and airgap... 4 thou is pretty extreme! A fair few people use the 7m CPS to convert N/A 2jz's to run on the e6x without issues either way its fixed now... runs a bit rich...(11:1) accidentally made a fireball out the exhaust last...

good luck selling it for more with a 5m in it! sell it as is or put a 7m back in...

I had the same issue, you don't have enough preload on the flapper, it needs half a hole preload, mine came with 0 preload... after adding preload it improved things ALOT the actuator arm is adjustable (this eliminates the need for shims) i suggest adjusting the linkage off the vehicle as well...

went for a test drive and its fixed, no misses car starts first go every time rpm's don't jump and makes good power on boost. Thanks for the help guys it sent me looking in the right direction! From what i can tell the issue was a combination of CPS gap and home edge incorrectly set.

Ok i think my home edge was wrong, set trigger to rising and home to falling edge and it starts up easily with minimal gain. the notch on the crank does not hop now its VERY steady. car drives good aswell found this also in the haltech manual "The common symptoms for trigger edge...