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ok just checked, NE = Yellow (trigger) G1 = Green (home) G2 = not wired to anything G- = Ground (red+blue wires on haltech) swapped the trigger edge and i'm getting erratic signals on crank, it spikes up to 600rpm at even intervals, ie a home event. at this point timing jumps about -10deg...

1) no i did not use brass feeler gauges, i believe they're stainless steel, is this an issue? 2) i did check for variations with different teeth, all were the same 3) did i check the polarity? i wired it up according to how others had running the same Ecu, ill have to check how its wired up and...

looks good IJ, I think id prefer a set-up i don't have to pull the gearbox out to install/remove the sensor.

1) there is no soldering on the ground, it goes STRAIGHT to the ECU ground which is bolted to the chassis in the engine bay, once again tested resistance from the sensor end to the ecu ground and found no issues and continuity 2) thanks for the offset info, that makes sense to me. 3) @ lock...

I've checked the shielding, shielding grounding which is at ECU, its the factory haltech loom, there are no issues with it, no resistance on the wires and they don't pass HT leads. Any idea about the trigger offset?

yeah i have, gain makes things worse my ignition system is as follows Haltech 3 channel ignitor into stock coil packs into 0.7mm gapped plugs NGK

Sure, Here is the trigger setup, when warm. timing reads 10deg BTDC or over 1000rpm when cold.

Its shielded, checked it from sensor to ecu ground, its a haltech long loom so its all their cables. use the other thread for this talk, this threads about the turbo :)

i made a new thread for it in the standalone section, i might give the modified 24-1 VR CPS a go http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?122486-Haltech-7MGTE-CPS-issues&p=1561359#post1561359

Thanks! the modified stock CPS looks alright! i've got a spare CPS so i might give it a shot, if that dosnt give me the desired result ill look at something a bit more hardcore such as Hall effect.

what's that IJ? where can i get one? :P how does it work?

Hi guys, i've got a haltech e6x running on a 7mgte, its been to the tuners once, they managed to do a base map and made some good power with a miss, (284rwhp @ 8psi) turns out the miss was the Gapping on the CPS it was 0.4mm or 16thou i regapped it to 0.2mm or 8thou (lower recommended in...

Sorry guys, luck is not on my side with this one.. car wont start, cant drop it off to the tuners. got the car running very nicely initially, when cold it seems the timing wanders and the car wont start just backfires and scares the crap out of the neighbours. i installed a 0.3mm gap cps in and...

That's Nasty!!! From what i can tell you snapped the shaft which put the hole in the casting, did you get bad compression surge / run a better BOV? I'm running the above mentioned "bolt on" T61, needs new oil lines but everything bolts up nicely. PM me if you want any more info.

UPDATE: finally fixed my miss. what was the issue? CPS gaping was 16thou... (Toyota recommend 8-16thou clearance) My guess is the TCCS has a better signal processor than the haltech and was able to clean up the signal, closed the gap up to 8thou clearance and reduced the gain to 0, car runs...

Mine had the same, My guess is that its a grounding circuit to prevent any sparks in the tank if water is introduced as petrol is a non-conductor, water is a conductor. I run a Walbro 255LPH

i know you mentioned it earlier that you originally got a code 14, after resetting the ecu (disconnecting battery for a bit) do you still get a code 14 after it dies? When it "dies" does it start back up straight away and idle only to die when you try to take off? or won't it start?

I'd say you'll make above 220rwhp, i made 284rwhp @ 7.8psi... what's the hold up anyway, got it dyno'd?

either way, cars putting down a HEAP more power since getting partially tuned. The tuner thinks he can get a bit better spool out of it but said its a fairly laggy turbo, id agree.. Fixed my alternator issues but the car still missed and was seeing RPM spikes in the logs (increased rpm) all...

UPDATE: silly me, rechecked fuses, found the 100A fuse for alternator blown, didn't look burnt either more broken., i remember dropping a spanner on the alternator to battery terminala few weeks ago... explains a bit but why did the engine still run with no battery connected?