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There is no other choice. There are two things needed to fire the injector, power and a ground source. Dude. It is one or the other, and the ECU provides the ground path. You never said you had B+ to the injectors. All grounds must be good.

http://www.oism.org/news/s49p415.htm

It will only suck for those that have not "confessed with your mouth and believe in your hearts, and you will be saved", for he said "if you deny me before man, I will deny you before the father". Then it will suck.

Did you read my post? Do you have B+ to the injectors? If not, do you have it to the resistor box?

Yes, the repair is incorrect or the sensor is bad.

I know there is more than one wiring harness. But there isn't more than one for a model. I had weight list at one time published on I-Supra. Not the gut it list, the whole car. It had like 7 models, or more. There should be one harness for each. GE manual, GE auto, GE sport roof, etc.

Joel, it isn't scientific fact. It is a subjective opinion. The industrial revolution that we had in the late 1800's through now alone would change the ratio of the carbon. At best it is only accurate to a few thousand years. There is not a consensus on this, just as there is not a consensus...

+1

It should read what they are.

The HKS VPC with an MR2 turbo chip will work if you dump the AFM.

Yes, dial gauge, with the head off even better. But he isn't in that position. If it is plastic hose and not rubber, I suppose it can work. That has to be one heavy 1/4 drive extension to do damage from a 2 inch fall. As long as it works, and nothing is f-ed up.

Besides the finish, the surfaces must be flat. That is checked with a machined straigt edge and a .00" feeler gauge. This is true of the stock headgasket also. For those that did not refinish, it is because your surfaces are flat.

+1 for somebody doing something right and not "what is the cheapest way, or do I have to" shit.

No power to the injectors is a likely cause. The ECU only supplies the ground path. I am assuming none of the injectors are pulsing, and you really do have spark.

I don't think the repair was done properly. The composite gasket has no problem whatsoever holding 10 psi. 10 psi and detonation or overheating is different. So is a head and block that are not flat.

There doesn't appear to be rust or tearing in the hole. Maybe the shock load of it breaking free, and the metal in poor condition.

Pull the EFI fuse in the engine compartment for 30 seconds then see if you still have the code. If not, your repair is good.

Can't say I have ever seen damage with a 1/4 drive extension, but the hose might bend without coming out.

The multifunction switch switches power. You could also have a short circuit to power.