It doesn't cause a high idle, but it can cause a stall or no start. I would look at the wiring and connections of the pick up before thinking the pickup itself doesn't work.
If you are going to play that game, be sure to keep all the old equipment. If you run a CT26 flanged turbo, it wouldn't hurt to keep the stock downpipe either. The cat is expensive.
Closed loop, regardless of any system is when it is responding to its own control. So for us, the ECU is reading the oxygen sensor and adjusting fuel with it.
Open loop is not.
Of course it is cause for concern. Otherwise Toyota would not have installed the warning light.
Typical problem is an open circuit. If you look in the book, Toyota calls it a "squib". Don't ask me where that name comes from. What I often found is things like Coke or Pepsi had been spilled on...
That raises main line pressure based on throttle position. No need for high pressure when you are at part throttle heading to the grocery store. When you stomp on it, the pressure goes up anyway.
Even I would consider spending some coin on that if it raised compression. The stocker has a deep dish and valve relifs cast into it. That looks like it has a partial dome.
That is assuming stock applications.
Great point and advice though. Get a real cooler. Even the things Uhaul sells is better than plumbing it through the radiator.
The aftermarket cats don't work to well from what I have seen. Some cars are richer by design than others, and a universal TWC is made for the masses. I have seen a few failures over the years with them.
20 psi at idle is perfect acceptable.
You may or may not be low, or have lost volume. The only way to know for sure is to check with a mechanical guage.
You don't even need the cam pliers. A small nail pulling like prybar works. Put it on the edge, roll the bar so the spring depresses, and put in the toll that holds it down. Then slip in the magnet.
Look at the other shims. You can do more than one at a time. You have to be off the lobe.
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