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Dish Network scheduling has it again. But this time it shows a different race on the same track first. And the 6:00 PM time was correct.

Yes it can come and go. Depending on the cause of the noise. The bearing is filling up with oil. That often shuts it up.

Maybe I am wrong, but with the stock GTE oil pump pushing oil out to the new and improved lines(bigger) and the full flow thermostat and cooler, I think I will be ok. At least I hope so. Speaking of lines, mine are 96", or 8'. I will probably need all of it, and then some with the filter under...

The MHG was like getting an unexpected Christmas present. Mods are ok when they are an improvement, and understated.

I was in a trans shop getting a rod for a T5, and they had one they rebuilt for $750. I thought it was a great deal, but just didn't have a use for it then. I wish it was accumalting dust now. It was from a 93 Z.

The 90 is on the upper. Yeah, they are 1/2 inch. It is bigger than stock. I can't see an issue with flow for the cooler. To tell you the truth, I hadn't even thought of running the upper or lower as in or out. The cooler came with 1/2 NPT female. So I am leaving them at that. Why do you think...

Yep. Nice car. I even like the white sawblades on the older ones.

If you drive it like a normal person... *sigh* Pick up the factory repair manual. The older manual had the trans section in it. The newer ones don't have the overhaul section, just some diagnostics.

They are geared different also. What did you pay for yours?

Is that an 80's engine in the build thread? It doesn't seem so. The orange paint stopped in the 70's I thought. The LT-1 was pretty hot with compression. Only a couple of years of production I think.

Have you checked open circuit voltage on the battery?

The 200R4 holds much better from what I have seen. You know you are fast when you start breaking parts.

I will add to what CK said. Start up the car and pump the pedal until it is solid. It will only take a few. Like he said, don't get in and drive off. You won't stop the first time.

I mocked up a fitment of the cooler and realized I needed a 90 degree elbow on the NPT fitting. What was I thinking. So I replaced it and installed it today. The holes are 83mm apart for the mount. Or 8.3cm with a tape measure. Or just trace the holes from the original if measuring is too hard...

That looks like LT-1 original orange in there. Is it?

Speaking of big tired 7M's, when will you be in the 8's?

How many DIYS threads of destruction do you need to read before you stop doing things you don't know how to do? That said, cam seals is easy. Very easy. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=39 You don't need to pull the head, that is just part of the article.

Unless that 350 came from a pre smog era framed car, your Supra is much stiffer and rigid. GM , Ford, and Chrysler met cafe by going to unibody structures over heavy frames. In addtion to downsizing engines. But like I said, if he is refrencing a 66 Chevelle that was iron with a real frame...

I just bought some washer fluid hose for the Yukon. Seems to be holding up just fine. :)

What if you have a very small leak like I have now? If the hose is wet, dirt is getting in. Permal cool shows it like you suggest in the suggestion for the thermostat. So it can be done. I will probably filter just before the engine. edit: Here you go.