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Nobody would have to do anything if meatheads didn't cross thread bolts when installing.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=48 As I said, it tells you exactly which is which.

How hot does the stock cast manifold actually get? I had an idea of using my high heat engine paint with ceramic on the manifold as long as the manifold is off the car. They claim 500 degrees, and 1200 intermittently. Since exaust temps can hit 1200no problem, where does that leave the manifold?

If you get the EWD, it will show you which wire in the harness is what. Each pin is labeled exactly for your year.

If you need to get to the VSV, it easier to take the alternator off than the manifold.

The manifold is already bigger than the stud. And it is only one. I haven't done anything yet, but am thinking about a helicoil 10 x 1.25, which is stock. And using red locktite on the insert. Good point about the gasket, because that just fits the stud.

Actually, it came fast. Since fast is a relative term. My car goes faster than most others, and rides wonderfully.

That is why I said turbo people. So that goes back to what I was saying. If he is so good, why does he sell a product that could be a lot better? Ebay rubbing off on him?

My car is an automatic. The exhaust looks stock to the average person, and more importantly sounds stock. I can tell the difference. There is a light drone under heavy load without throttle. Such as a small hill. But the 7M whir at WOT easily overpowers it.

Now you call the 1JZ a dust devil? :biglaugh:

Of all the things to worry about...

The GTE casting is made from the GE casting.

The 60-1 CT26 fails from surge, not the shaft. According to the turbo people here. So this seems like he went backwords. I can pull the threads if needed.

No it is in his hand. Duh! It is kind of hard to have to much fuel. You should look at spark intensity.

It isn't a heat barrier, when it is made of the same thing it is seperating. A phenolic spacer would be different, but it still won't pick up 12 horsepower.

Have you checked your fuel pressure when it won't restart hot?

That is fine, but it wasn't from installing that filter. http://www.fallacyfiles.org/cumhocfa.html Some light reading for the night...

The best thing to do is run a voltage drop test to the starter on the big wire. You should only lose a tenth or two of volts at the big wire. That is after you load test your dead battery.

Which means he is getting the IGF signal also. Unless he has really bad wires and plugs, or the firing order is wrong, he has already been told what is wrong.

The more restriction there is, the less flow there is. When you run a garden hose without a sprayer, how do you get it to spray further? Restrict the opening with your thumb. That increases resistance which is pressure. Less comes out, but with more force. Grim, why do you think you need so...