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For those that use grunt, the crank pulley is held with what is called a strap wrench.

Says the man with 9600 posts... :sarcasm: For the original post, the amount of "boost" you will show on the gauge when stock is 5.5-7.5 with a manual trans. Auto is slightly less from the torque converter slippage.

Not needed with the right tools. I am guessing you don't have the right tools. And when it comes time, don't put a breaker bar on the crank bolt, and operate the starter motor.

Which pipe? The intake pipe between the airflow meter and turbo inlet, commonly called the accordian hose, has a hose on it that connects with power steering. It brings up idle speed.

Unbelievable... No, you don't. Toyota just wanted to spend extra money in devolpment, and add weight. You have already made up your mind, so why did you waste server space with this question? To pat yourself on the back?

Nor required to meet US NOx levels in Japan. :nono: Many new cars in the US don't have it either. Variable cam timing to save the day.

:nono:

Unbelievable...

Visually inspect the plug and harness to make sure it looks ok. It isnt easy to ruin an airflow meter, unless it has outside help. Over oiled K&N, dropping, etc.

Champion Toyota, even with out a SOGI discount has really good prices. I buy things from them over the internet.

Said circuits can be the dome light, that is the green light under the dash, parking lights, as some people like, or hardwire to a B+ source. The switch provides the ground to the relay, so you won't have too much current. And after you do what shaeff suggests, dont' forget to turn them off.

I had asked the tool peddler about a DSO from Fluke. That was 8 years ago. They should be cheaper now.

How about we keep it simple. 52 means there is no signal to the ECU. You can put a meter on Hz, but a scope is better. Last time I priced one, they were about 3500. You can backprobe or pierce the wire with somthing very sharp. With the engine off, tap the block. See if there is an output of any...

Actually, valves inside are turned. There are differnet sized openings for the fluid. That is what the motor is for.

No need to take the cap off at all. All they needed to do was align the matchmarks.

You need to do a leak down test to find out what is wrong. Or swap injectors. And swap a coil. Or pull the plugs and look at it. Check the wire for arcing. etc etc... What you are looking for with the knock sensor is frequency. Check the autoshop pages to see if you need to look at...

The thread is titled 2JZ into an SC300. That is what it came with... A GTE shouldn't be a difficult task.

But not more force. A custom grind from Comp Cams or similar would be different.

Well, if you have no change during a power balance test, that is what it is called, you have a dead cylinder. How do you know you are getting a signal from the knock sensor? Put a scope on it?

Everything on this planet can crack.