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I going to think about this. I deleted a post with a comment that isn't really accurate. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=36 Make sure you get the EWD for your year. As you can see, there are things hard wired to the battery. Or the fusable links and...

:biglaugh: I think his goals are typical. I myself don't need that much top end. And mine with an upshift at 5800?

Is it the top end pull you prefer to the 3582?

You won't have spark or injection without a signal indicating engine position and speed. Check again and see if the code came back.

Your smoking gun no doubt. I haven't seen many Toyota ignition switch failures, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have a problem. Heed the advice. One thing, everything falls off the grid. As in, no power anywhere? Like the battery is unhooked, or it just won't crank now. The battery...

$400 only buys the metal panel part. At least last time I looked at the price. 15 years ago. The liner and seals were seperate, as talked about.

You won't have spark without a pick up signal. Or fuel. That is fine, but adding a relay didn't help start the car. I was just curious. Good to hear it cranks over now. I don't know what you are talking about, so don't worry about it.

Mark Tozer said his went 30,000 miles before dying at 980 rwhp.

Why did you remove the noise maker? Just wondering. Your car had a starter relay already. So pull codes. You can also ground the cold start injector time switch and see if it starts faster. And unplug the ECT sensor and see if it starts and runs better. Check both of those seperate and...

If you swap brakes, swap all brake parts. That is more work than I would be willing to do. ABS is certainly important in Kuwait. Tough spot to be in. TEMS doesn't handle better, it makes for a nice street ride.

There is nothing easier about holding a nut and driving a bolt into it, than running a bolt into a fixed hole. I don't think either is hard.

The 91 and 92 are easier to change than the earlier. Toyota threaded the holes on the starter, instead of a bolt and nut.

And the ECT sensor is not a part of the cranking circuit. It will crank regardless. It might not fire up, but that is a different symptom.

So you still haven't checked the small wire on the starter. Clearly, there isn't switched power. You have a starter relay that has to close. You have theft deterent that allows that. You have a neutral start switch that needs to close, or the power is interupted. You have to find out what is...

You still don't get it. You want to claim that twins spool faster. To do so, you use evidence of different sized turbos. That has nothing to do with adding another turbo. A second turbo slows down response. I am done with this one. For now.

Considering I have the Toyota manual at home descirbing the two way turbo on the 2JZ works, I will pass on a wiki article. Try this, since you don't seem to get it. If you take that twin GT28, and remove one, running all 6 into it, will it respond faster or slower than two? Just so you...

And now you know what hotwiring is.

The starter solenoid, in addition to being a solenoid for the plunger, is a relay for the motor. Not to confuse some of you. The EWD probably shows a picture of it.

What about the head?

Good thread. Keep in mind that maintaining it, in fact, does keep value. To say other wise is wrong. Let a car go to pot and see what it is worth. Well maintained keeps good value. A specialty value is hard to get. For example, not to slam Mark, I wouldn't pay 20K, for somebody else's...