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55 watt fog lights? LOL! Are you landing aircraft? ;)

What year? I am going to look at my 91. That wire is still parallel, and goes through two fusable links as you mentioned. edit: I didn't read your original post close enough. You touched wires together in the harness? I thought you meant you touched one to ground...

3 and 4 are companion on the ignition. A failure to seal between mechanical companion is also possible.

You held the pedal to the floor and it started? Does it continue to start?

Over the last few days it has been in the upper 90's with the heat index of 110. I bought refridgerant from ebay and fixed my A/C. I have a new OEM radiator, new fan clutch (as in very low miles) OEM working thermostat, and new hoses. With 40 degree discharge temps and driving like an idiot my...

You have to have multiple blown fuses. The alternator is parallel to the powersource off the battery. Usually, the fusable link goes if that happens. But remember, the link does a quick burn, not a pop like a fuse. It is bolted in and you have to take the box out to get the screws.

When the Toyota donut goes bad, they have a put put put sound that isn't very loud. The studs don't have to be loose to have the leak.

Since the old thread is back, the rear for the JZA80 came with 9.5 inch rear, which is enough for 275 In terms of proper mounting and keeping the sidewall vertical.

You should not be lean, unless you have pulled fuel with a pressure regulator. The further out the bypass screw on the AFM is, the less air the ECU thinks you are getting, and the less fuel it will deliver.

During normal driving at operating temps? No, that isn't normal. That is normal. The AFM doesn't respond to a rich condition. It measuers the volume of air entering the engine. Under boost, the volume is higher and faster, and the AFM shows this. The ECU then enrichens the mixture over...

Aside from a window rattling sound system, the majority of people don't need a 130 amp alternator. Add up the loads in the EWD.

Ford dealers sell them.

There is a reason ATF is recomended when not new, and it isn't hydraulic assist.

I really like that blue.

You won't need race gas. And 350 or 400 rwhp are not the same. That turbo will easily get you there without huge lag or being on the ragged edge.

I am going to repost, just so he can get a decent view of the wire color in the bundle.

If he has to increase pump speed, the hydraulic portion is bad. That can be the pump or the rack, but the rack is unlikely based on symptom. The pump clearance is probably bad causing weak flow at lower rpm. More speed increases flow so you get assist.

I have my boost set to about 12 psi, until I get around fuel cut safely.

I lost a Supra under the same scenario but different circumcstances. I am still mad about it. That was....2003. Why can't these people hit a Honda Civic or Toyota Camry. There is only about a million of those things on the road.

Original when I bought it 5 years ago, and today. Mods include manual boost controller, 1UZFE AFM, RC 550cc Injectors, Boss Jr, Canton oil relocator, B&M stacked plate oil cooler, HKS downpipe and exhaust, LIPP elbow, Bosch heavy duty compressor bypass valve.