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I think you are missing some basic information. The TCCS cuts fuel for several reasons. Such as deceleration, engine speed, excess airflow through the air flow meter. The third causes DTC 34, abnormal turbocharger pressure. That is boost cut as you called it. An intake leak will do the same...

You need to do quite a bit of cranking to get oil pressure in the turbo lines. It seems like the owners manual says 30 seconds.

The automatic does not develop as much boost because an automatic has less load. Unlike what you read sometimes about the dyno and the auto making less. The fluid coupling is the cause of the slip and lower load, and less boost.

The old set up sent no oil through the cooler until the pressure relief let it go. Like at high rpms. It should take longer, but consider what oil you are using.

Lean is mean. Pump gas, even 93 or 94 doesn't leave much room for error. Especialy with a cast piston. Ultimately, you should look at EGT's, in addition to A/F ratios.

There is an aftermarket harness still in the car I have seen while inspecting. But the system was taken out, save the crummy Pioneer raido. I don't know what the 91-92 sub system is. I don't have the advanced alarm system, or the add on remote door lock fob, if that is the same thing. I will...

I think it wasn't done completely because you said the lines are mushy. That is what happens when air is in the line. Or it leaks, which is the same thing only different. ABS is bled the exact same was as conventional brakes. In fact, unless the unit is running, you are on conventional brakes...

I don't see any amp under the passenger seat carpet. The wiring diagram shows the harness right there. I don't see the harness either. I looked in the slit in the carpet next to the rear air duct. Could it have come without the amp? The original owner bought this car loaded. Shadow gray leather...

In case you haven't figured it out, and that seems to be the case, try the fittings on what? If the poster has something to say or offer, then do it. Don't drop a link that I am not going to read.

It is the TCCS program that is rich, not the meter choice. The car has cast pistons. They are expensive to replace if somebody puts a hole in one by running 11.5:1.

You only ran a 14.0? I know it is a JZ, but try nitrous or something.

Try what?

If it was the booster, he wouldn't have those symptoms. When the engine is running he has vacuum assist. His improperly bled lines or leaking line is mushy when he has assist. When the engine is not running, you only have assist for one stop. One pump and the pedal will not be mushy. My guess...

I was thinking of 55 A. ::dunce::

Like this?

HKS also sold an automatic transmission upgrade. It was about $2500 a couple of decades ago.

Did you check open circuit voltage on that wire? That will tell you if the circuit protection is tripped if you don't see it.

What is wrong? Engine timing is wrong? If the engine timing is wrong, the cam position sensor doesn't need to come out until the engine timing is correct.

Those cylinders don't share injection. If what you are saying is true, you have two broken wires, two bad injectors, or two bad transistors in the ECU. Those are the only choices. And since the cylinders are side by side, and share waste spark, that is a much more likely choice. And if you...

Waiting for the pi man. I waited this long, I can wait longer. Reg Reimer is sellling modified ECU's also.