And your alternator is how old? Mine is so old, the ND sticker is hard to read. Mine did something like that last summer. The B+ stud is on the rectifier as you know, so I ordered a new one, brushes, and regulator and did a "rebuild". Then my intermittent charging problem went away. The stud was...
I don't know what you are talking about either. The valve and solenoid is in series between the turbo outlet and the wastegate actuator. Then it is wired to the control unit.
Yes. I don't know about the heating part but... His pump isn't running at 12v, it is running at whatever the alternator can give it, within the capability of the wiring. 13.5-14.0 volts. And the injectors are big, but not 255 big, let alone 400 big.
No. Low vacuum just means the valve is open and the piston is moving air faster. There isn't as much resistance to the piston's downward travel.
Define pig rich. You can run very rich before a car stalls.
12.6v is battery voltage based on 2.1 volts per plate. Check open circuit voltage with a multimter, not a turbo timer. You can check it at the stud, and at the battery to see that there isn't any voltage drop.
I am not going to assume it is charging at 14v because your gauge said so. And...
And when the battery light is on, it doesn't mean anything is defective or working normal. It means the battery is discharging. Now, if the car is running and the light is on....
You are filming the wrong side of the engine bay. The fan is blowing air all over your intake area. That makes for the eratic readings. I don't know what else is wrong yet. " A crap load wrong". It is hard to tell, but it looks dark on the left side of the 3000 pipe at the clamp. Dark would...
I haven't had one in my hand in a while. Seems like it is a round end on the sender that the wire slides over and clips on. If you don't find the clip at Radio Shack, pull one off any Toyota in that range.
That will cause the stutter.
That would altar your fuel map a bit, but probably...
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