Search results

Your answer was already provided, or at least the direction on what to do. But I have a comment for you. I spent a good amount of time at Toyota. A bad ECU is very rare. In fact, in my years there, I saw one. Contrary to what you read on the internet.

The Cressida has no changes that I saw. It has been many years. And yes, the 89 new body on the Cressida got the 7M.

If you don't have spark, you have a code. Unless you have grounded the distributor somehow.

TPS is not input nor a part of the combination meter. It has to be mechanical, and air in the system. The water pump is stirring it up. Air over the ECT sensor will read cold. Unless there is some sort of home station wiring going on, but I am not sure how that would work out. So your car...

I have a complete orginal 1UZFE housing minus electronics you can have if you think it would help. The bypass is set without the adjustment. It is not a scaled up 7M meter. Well, it is, but the bypass is noticably different. What I really want is a larger mass air flow sensor of the analog...

All you need to do is let it idle for 10 seconds and then drive normal. Normal is not redline or boost. The Toyota owners manual says avoid "jack rabbit starts".

Of course it isn't. The engine had to last 500 miles or so. Gas has too much thermal energy and lights very easy.

Cam on the 86.5-88 is different. The intake changed over to match the Cressida when it went 7M. As such, cylinder pressure is different with the compression test specs.

And that has nothing to do with DTC 11. When you fix that, the other codes will come.

The bad idle can cause the Hz to be low, rather than the meter telling a lie.

Back in the day, the Honda Indy car ran 55 psi with its high compression engine.

It should work just fine. Remove the alternator to get to the bolt and nut easier. :slap:

11-13 is kind of low. The spec is up to 30 Hz at idle.

I love how he has his test n tune number still on the windshield when wrecked. Cops probably snickered at you.

If you mean its stock appearance then you know I agree. You could do a few small things that are needed. Like a small manual boost controller (check ball spring, threaded joint) and Lex meter with 550's. Your call, nice find. Did you get it locally? Or did you search the western US?

Got a (good) picture of the bracket? Just to see their work. In my experience my LIPP products have been very high quality.

Cars don't stall when you open the throttle if you have a rich condition.

I plugged my top end oil leaks. And I can see seepage from the EGR cooler. Ughh. Yes, it can be done in the car. It is just a tad difficult. Time to order up from Champion again.

Boost leak? I said intake leak. Your main repeating symptom shows a lack of fuel enrichment. That could be the airflow meter, the pump, or false air unmetered air. You have to find what it is. Then the other possible problems.