Good. The retards use the internet to be known. That is my conclusion.
Toyota specs for the most part match SAE specs. .001 on the block and a little more on the head. The composite gasket will accomodate the rough surface, but not warpage beyond specs.
I did 30 on the tank on the drive to Vegas with cruise control for the entire tank. Watch how fast your LT corrects. First tank was 26, second was 29.5.
You don't want to run the larger meter without the correctly sized injectors. Toyota uses a rich tune in lieu of forged pistons. It is playing with fire.
My 2 cents....Don't bother. Get a T4 compressor with a flange to mount the stock manifold. While my Boss Jr is no longer available, the JT series is still out there.
I just wanted to repeat this. It didn't seem to sink in.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h44.pdf
This is part of the OBD level 2 lesson, but it still applies. And as for Mr Icanoutdriveabs, if it really held at 14.7:1, then something was wrong. It is supposed to switch. The catalyst...
Small brakes that will warp when pushed to 100 mph multiple times? That is rich. If you need other cooling help, just ask, but that is all I have for now.
Let's establish some things you already know, but maybe are not thinking about.
The switching is from closed loop. The switching is to keep the catalyst in the proper operating range. The computer runs rich and lean on purpose for that catalyst. The only way to switch the sensor would be if...
For what reason do you hate it? Because it slips and doesn't draw engine power when moving? Or because it moves more air when it is standing still? So you take things off the car Toyota put on so it will cool, then you ask if putting them back on will cool it? Priceless. I love the interwebz....
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