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My car's got a stock 50k JDM 7M with MHG and ARP's. Been pushing 15+ psi and 372+ rwhp for almost 2 years with great results. I also use the high-tech oil products I distribute which is also a contributing factor to avoiding oiling problems and rod knock.

Your short-throw shifter will make shifting faster but stiffer, because you lose leverage to gain the short throw, so it is stiffer than a stock shifter would be.

The clutch should break in over time. My ACT 6-puck unsprung clutch is quite slippable at higher RPMs, but the engagement is quite harsh at low RPMs.

Poly sounds ideal. Can't you use some sort of grease to stock the squeaking?

This could be a new trend emerging for sure... all depends on the practicality of it. It could be an attraction for racers in winter or bad weather, but getting the car there might be a challenge.

Very nice list! You might like the crower cam group buy option. I'm leaning heavily towards doing that next.

Well put! Keep your comforts and add a set of cams or something to go a bit faster. Don't forget about the comfort of your passengers too! (Chicks)

I wish I had used rust stop on my Mk2 hatch!

Keep in mind that removing 100 lbs of weight is like gaining only 6 horsepower (from what I've heard). Personally I have removed the spare tire and swapped in lighter seats, but you're better off keeping the car's comforts and modding it for more HP for a more enjoyable, well-rounded package IMHO!

Another option is one of those car tents. I got a cheap one with open sides for about $150 shipped on ebay, but there are fancier ones with sides like a mini-garage. Might work out to the same price as a winter's worth of storage, plus you could keep your car out of the rain year round!

Just in time for Xmas. Are you in Canada Nashman?

My JDM diff just broke. They are much weaker than the USDM ones. Also, I found that the 4.10 ratio was too short for a high power turbo car. Much less time in boost, felt like less was work being done. I am swapping back in my stock 3.93. Glad I kept it as backup!

I use a B&D cordless ratchet with a 6mm hex tip. I can take the targa off or put it on in 30 seconds! With front, middle, and rear chassis bar braces the flex is very minimal. Just a bit of occasional shimmy. My targa has been out all summer and it is SO worth it. I originally wanted a sunroof...

Is your diff conversion in your build thread? How would I go about finding it? Thanks IJ

I once had dirty headlights and the spray did nothing to clean them. Pretty useless IMHO.

Are you running a JDM T1?

Consider the rear side markers as well. I believe the company that was making the rear side diamond clears has stopped. Plus people will want the fronts to match the rears, and the diamond clears are much more mirror looking.

Try rotating your driveshaft by hand. You'll know if your diff has lots of slack. Mine turned about 3/4" in the slack

I checked the lube and it's still full. It's just a different design than the US diffs and breaks more easily.

Took the chance running a JDM Torsen diff for a few months, since they give much better traction than a clutch type LSD, but it is now toast. It went out in a strange way too. It developed a lot of slack over the course of a day, causing lots of driveline bouncing and surging. I had the car up...