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By the way changing the diff is not fun. I had to build a support out of 2x4's that bolted to my jack to raise and lower it. It would have been almost impossible with just a jack alone since it weighs 80lbs and is tricky to get up there.

I went with Lumileds Superflux from Future electronics. I'm running them at 65% of their current capability and they still burn my eyes. I think they are the same as the ones in the Toyota Prius, which has only 9 or so per tail. Thanks for the opinions guys. The car is currently undergoing a...

I tried a 4.10 diff and swapped my stocker back in later (3.91 I think?). Turbo cars do better with taller gears, in my opinion, because the turbo spools better with more load. I found that my car was running out of gear faster and spending less time in that turbo sweet spot.

I tried the Castrol Superclean, and it got some of it off, but it seemed that I would have to scrub for a week straight to get all of it off. DId you use a wire brush or what?. I'm amazed that you did it that way!

Load resistors would work, but I'm not going to use them. There are flasher modules that can replace the stock one, and I'll just remove the bulb failure lamp in the dash. I've already destroyed one tail center trying to get the paint off, it is SO difficult. I'm not sure I want to risk another...

a Vector? Never seen one until now. Interesting! The red one looks killer.

2 years on my Tein SS's, and they work great. They are too stiff for my tastes though, and Tein USA said they can sell me lower rate springs for them.

Okay, here are 2 rough renderings of what I'm thinking of. Opinions?

My dimming/switching PWM circuit lights up all the red LED's together, and I can adjust the brightness of both modes (stop & tail modes). I'll just make the brakes super bright, so it should be a safe contrast.

Yes, I am doing the amber turn signals like in the first rendering. 3 bars with 2 rows each to light up the clear parts, and I've got some ultra-bright white LED's for reverse lights, in the stock location.

Hopefully HT5SSilverSupraT will chime in. He did that amazing first photoshop rendering!

I was originally planning to try a full-bar LED design like this rendering: but as I've started putting it together, I'm liking the sleek look of just 4 thin horizontal bars going across the length of the tails. I'm really considering this easier design for both looks and time saved, but...

Definition of "Brokerage" = to make you Broke.

While on this topic, what is the best way to remove chrome plating from aluminum? I've got an eBay eBrake handle the would look great polished if I could get the chipping chrome off it easily.

Update: they resolved my rear seat issue. Apparently there was a mix-up or an error in the pattern and they sent me replacements for the 2 rear seat backs. If anyone else has this problem, call them up and they should do the same for you.

Fronts only, or rears also?

Btw, has anyone solved their cold starting problems by replacing this sensor? If it is faulty, what is the usual default?

I actually LOL'd! Worth it, even if it's a repost.

I just got one of these for my 5M. It looks heavier and chunkier than the thin stock blades. I worried about it too, but it works just fine.

This topic has been argued to death. Many people say that the cold start injector only operates below 60 degrees, and many people can start just fine even after removing it (FFIM). My car has this same starting problem, and I think it has something to do with the temp sensor for the ECU.