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Um. See post #1, perhaps.

Or you could just go to an oem fan and brand new $75 oem shroud, and never, ever worry about cooling again. but that's just me. ps- I had the flex-a-lite 210's. they cooled just fine...whenever the relays worked...and they were loud as hell.

LaMArOsa. Wow. Haven't seen that car in awhile. I was wondering what else you could possibly do to it. Yup. Attempted Euro-style LED marker lights glued on at various locations. Awesome. You know, If NASA had put that much effort into a spaceship, we'd have Deathstars and shit by now...

Well, it appears to be a direct treadstone knockoff, or it may even be a treadstone- I don't know if they put a logo on theirs. the Treadstone unit is supposed to take either a 40 or 50mm. I dunno.

All I'm saying is- there are fouls after the play. I paraphrase: Post# 5: tyang- [I researched, learned more, and am taking the car to a qualified shop.] (This is where he shoulda gotten an attaboy, and the thread ended) Post# 7: hyvman- [You don't know much about A/C] Post#10: Jetjock-...

Which other guy are you talking about? Tyang just said he was going to a shop to service it, and I just just said he should.

I'd rather not cut off parts. Now if there's a bolt on adapter to go v-band, cool.

Either leave the turbo completely loose, or leave the feed pipe loose where it mounts under the turbo. That'll allow you to flex the feed line even more.

Anyone? Anyone know the mount dimensions of a 40 or 50mm wastegate?

Good deal- R12 is colder than R134 anyway.

The low port is on the side of the compressor itself. Is your system still R12, or has it been retrofitted to R134? If it's still R-12, I'd say take it to a shop, as Nick M inferred.

Hmm. I've been running knock sensors out of a '95 4-runner (square plug) on my '88 now for 4+ years, no problems.

Hey guys- I just picked up a T-4 manifold from a guy. He says he bought it a few years ago from NOPI, and it's brand new. Problem is, I'm not sure what size wastegate will bolt to it. The manifold is a HKS log style, like the 'Treadstone' units made now, though I don't know the manufacturer...

So, as it turns out, Skip's car already had a rewire job, and it looks like it was done pretty well. The only thing was, one of the plugs *might* have been soldered poorly, as it came off when we were checking it. Unfortunately, we couldn't make use of the original pin, although we definately...

Well, I was told it could be a source of clunking. I've got a clunk in the rear anytime I go throttle on, or throttle off. I've checked the rear subframe, the bushings, replaced the diff itself, the driveshaft is a one-piece, so I'm running out of ideas. I plan to replace all rear bushings...

Will let you know tomorrow.

I have used an oem type head gasket with ARP's, and it held just fine. But as mentioned, you never know the condition on something that's been bolted together for 91,000 miles.

Well, my name is Diego, and I'll give you a text or call on Thursday afternoon if I can come up there. Ps- for the rewire, you want to get some good coax wire, but not like home cable coax- that stuff is too thick and un-flexible.

Whats that red crap wrapped around the boost controller?

And do I understand correctly, that if that spherical bearing goes bad, it makes a clunking sound just like a bad diff? I'm asking, because I think I have to replace both of mine.